I'm Not A Hater, But I Am A Hater: The Current State of Menswear Discourse & Fashion Bros

From Throwing Fits to Jake Woolf to Comoli — an honest look at menswear’s drama, gatekeeping. And yes, unfortunately, Chris Black’s line too.

Before We Begin

In case you’re reading Duchump for the first time, you can catch up on my latest work — the last three posts are just below:

• Fabric First, Silhouette Second: An Interview with William McNicol

• Bad Influence, Good Taste: A Duchump State of Mind

• Corduroy Is For The Baddies

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The Current State of Menswear Discourse

First things first — there’s nothing wrong with being a hater, as long as you have the cojones to say it with your chest. We’ve grown a little too kind in fashion, offering fewer and fewer critiques around a collection, a trend, or — in this case — the state of menswear discourse.

You can’t deny it: we’ve all had a sip of the Haterade at some point in our lives. Whether it’s someone in your office getting a promotion over you, or seeing someone you’re into get with a friend of yours — the examples are endless. It’s only natural. You just need to know your limits, and when it’s actually appropriate to be a hater.

Lately, I’ve had a lot of people reach out asking for my thoughts on the ever-evolving state of fashion-bro culture, taste-making, and what happens when A-tier Duchumpian brands like Comoli, Auralee, and Graphpaper start circulating in spaces like Throwing Fits, Jake Woolf’s orbit, and the wider menswear internet.

Am I a hater? Oh, absolutely — but hear me out.

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Throwing Fits

I first got into Throwing Fits right before the pandemic, and became a supporter during it. For the most part, it was a way to pass the time, since Larry and James’ conversational style felt refreshing — especially after being an avid Four Pins fan, and even trying to recreate it at some point way back when.

As time progressed, and after being reunited with the rest of the world post-lockdowns, I became less interested in what they — so obnoxiously — had to say. It almost felt like your high-school bullies adopted your major personal interest, claimed it as theirs, and then made you feel like an outsider if you didn’t match the frat-bro energy.