Bad Influence, Good Taste: A Duchump State of Mind
We're spiralling — talking about brown clothes, Japanese brands, Monkey Shoes, visiting Paris, and a very, very sweet life update.
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Fits, Pick-Ups, Thoughts
It’s been an eventful few months.
This could be a one-off, or we may be looking at more — but I had my first article published for GQ Recommends a few weeks ago. This was special for a few reasons, mainly because I never thought I’d be featured in a publication like GQ — especially after only a year of writing on Substack, without a background in writing, journalism, etc.
If this isn’t a sign to get on with your goals, I don’t know what is. I’ve been working — or at least orbiting — this space for years: as a photographer, founder of two print publications, consultant, and even posting on TikTok (rip) and Instagram. And despite all of that, I never thought this day would come — but it finally happened.
I do want to thank you for your support. I’ve genuinely enjoyed meeting Duchump subscribers and hearing what’s inspired you, what you’ve picked up, and how I’ve been an incredibly bad influence. No regrets — I’m taking you down with me, pal.
Anyway, let’s move forward and talk shop.
With the sky pitch-black by 4:30 PM, it’s hard to get into any kind of rhythm. You kind of just want to curl up, listen to drone music, and contemplate your life until the next glimmer of sun finds its way through the curtain. Thoughts, endlessly spiralling — leaving your nauseous, scared, confused, maybe aroused. Whatever gets you going.
Here are some of mine:
Why did I invest in an alternative meat product?
Could Bronny James have stopped the Mongolian conquest of Baghdad?
Am I washed? If not, what am I?
Why am I watching a 30-minute breakdown of the history of Mac Tonight?
All valid thoughts.
To survive these darker days, I’ve been retooling my wardrobe — though when am I not doing that — by targeting the sections most in need of improvement. Jackets and coats, for one. This has (somewhat) been addressed with the addition of the Innes Jacket by Niceness, the Bo Bomber by Sono, and the Cotton Twill Short Zip by Comoli.
Next on the list: shirts and sweaters. Progress has been made after picking up the Espresso Relaxed Shirt and Military Shirt by Lemaire, the Wool Collared Cardigan by Comoli, a Brushed Wool Twill Field Shirt by Evan Kinori, and the bitchy little Garment Dyed Light Sweat Parka by Auralee.
All in all, healthy additions to the rotation — long-term over temporary. I’ve also got my eye on a few things, like the Whip Cord Vintage Zip Jacket by ssstein. Unfortunately, the khaki one I want appears to be sold out everywhere. If you know anyone who can link me up, please pass this message along. I am, quite literally, in distress. I’ve been opening up tabs every hour, checking to see if someone’s returned my size.
Footwear’s been an area I’ve been struggling with, however. The Calfskin Leather Zipped Boots by Lemaire are under serious consideration, even though I’ve never been a big das boot guy. “Inspired by the world of formal footwear” — girl, that’s a big-ass world you’re pulling inspiration from. Anyway, I’ve been relying heavily on my Flat Piped Slippers by Lemaire and Wanderers by Tarvas, but I’m ready to expand a little.
As of right now, my holy grail for footwear is the Monkey Shoe by James Coward, ideally in their Black Pampus Leather — however, they’ve released a new iteration cut from a dark brown olivvia deerskin that’s got me weak in the knees. For those wondering, Olivvia Leather is Tricker’s in-house tanning process using olive-leaf extract instead of chemicals — softer, lighter, and ticking all the sustainability boxes by being better for both you and the planet. It (supposedly) smells good, ages beautifully, and feels like something you’re meant to own forever.
Additionally — the price point remains the same as their other Monkey Shoes, which is a win considering the level of quality you’re getting. I’d take a look if I were you.
To end things off — I’ll be returning to Paris in January. Hold onto your butts — Duchump is ready to take over Paris, bit by bit. Thanks for your support, and let’s keep the good times rollin’ (air raid vehicle).
Editor’s Note: Forgot to mention that I got new jeans. They’re the Baggy Indigo Denim Jeans by ssstein, and they are very, very nice. Got me cosplaying a working man.
The Influx of Brown Garments
It seems like every other month, I stumble into a new fixation that keeps me occupied until the next one comes along. But this time, it’s sticking around a little longer than expected: buying anything and everything in brown. Not just any brown — a very specific, delicious shade that’s slowly taken over my wardrobe. At this point, my fits resemble a lineup of chocolate bars — all the kinds you’d want to eat (and wear).
This sounds a little kinky. Moving on.
At the start of the year, I promised myself I’d add a bit more colour to my rotation — introducing classic blues and greens into an otherwise dark, gloomy cast of shades. However, after a few months of accumulation that left my closet looking like a bag of Skittles (a lot of candy references today — maybe I’m hungry), I realized it wasn’t the right move for me.
I’m most confident in my usual flow of greys, blacks, and whites — but over the past three months, I’ve noticed more and more shops carrying brown-toned garments again. From jackets to cardigans to trousers, it’s the shade quietly taking over your favourite shop’s inventory. There’s no escaping it — so you might as well embrace it with open arms.
This isn’t the first time brown has been the colour, and it certainly won’t be the last. Regardless of what’s trending that year, it’s a classic — inevitable, even — and it elevates any look in a subtle, self-assured way. I’ve started building a collection of pieces in various shades of brown: from my Caspa Terra Cardigan by UK-based brand Sono to a vintage ’80s Y’s for Men shirtn (picked up from the Machine Heirlooms pop-up) that, despite the sleeves being two inches too short, I had to pick up.
Why?
Because the little worm in my head told me to. But honestly, the body of the shirt fits great — it’s giving nonchalant Parisian when the sleeves are rolled up. Maybe I should pick up smoking next.
Anyway, I’ve rounded up a few options to get your collection started quickly and efficiently — focusing on quality options that’ll stay in your rotation for years to come:
R19S4 ”OD Shirt” Mud Fade by MAN-TLE, Brown Cocoon Trousers by Aviva Jifei Xue, ”RC-PO” Brown Corduroy Zip Shirt by Barbell Object, Pleated Brown Corduroy Jacket by Yoko Sakamoto, Brown Box Pleat Trousers by Sage Nation, Mud-Dyed C Jacket and Dress Band Shirt by Mark. S, No. 216 Corduroy Puffer Zipper Jacket by Gabriela Coll Garments, Brown Joseph Coat by Wright & Doyle, Sumi Ink Corduroy Brown Zip Jacket Two by Evan Kinori, Wanderer Leather Shoe by Tarvas, and the Dark Brown Zip Blouson by Auralee.
Camiel Fortgens Meets Graphpaper
A classic tale of two giants clashing — creating a spectacle, dazzling the eyes and titillating the mind. This time around, it’s the work of Takayuki Minami’s Graphpaper and Camiel Fortgens.
It was very unexpected, but somehow it feels necessary — especially on Graphpaper’s end. The pairing delivers a satisfying collision of precision and deconstruction, resulting in — stylistically — a pretty sexy body of work. We’ve covered this before, but Minami’s design philosophy comes from a place of deep intentionality: collections built for specific environments and purposes, while still being completely wearable in real life. It’s classic Japanese fashion — design with purpose, rather than design for the sake of noise or fluff.
Camiel, on the other hand, approaches intentionality with sneaky wink. His work leans playful, almost mischievous — a softer chaos that rubs up against Graphpaper’s controlled calm and more sophisticated design language. You will spot his fingerprints immediately: whimsical deconstruction, silhouettes that can be a bit too exaggerated, and colours that most menswear brands are still too scared to touch (e.g. Orange Karate Pants, or a Purple Hunting Jacket).
Put those two worlds in a room and you’d expect sparks — the bad kind.
Bringing those two worlds together — you’d expect it to clash. Instead, they click. The result is a tight, thoughtful capsule that feels collaborative rather than compromised. The Satin Gabardine Bal Collar Coat — a mid-length coat featuring CF’s classic raw detailing along the edges and collar, made from a dry double-weave wool gabardine leans heavily Camiel-coded, offering the right amount of mess and chaos. Meanwhile, the 3L Mountain Parka swings back toward Minami — oversized, technical, built from waterproof 3-layer PERTEX SHIELD, and ready for actual weather, while adding raw cuts à la Fortgens.
Then there’s Graphpaper’s Oversized Regular Collar Shirt, reworked with Camiel’s interventions. It’s cut from a densely woven poplin that drapes like a dream and lands comfortably among Minami’s greatest hits. If you’ve been hunting for an oversized shirt, I regret to inform you — it’s this one. I have zero complaints, which says a lot considering my eternal struggle with sleeves, shoulders, and chest proportions. I should’ve gone pro, my limbs are meant for the NBA — what am I doing?
Price-wise? Surprisingly fair, which is music to my ears.
It sits where Graphpaper usually does, which honestly feels like a mercy given that Camiel’s pieces alone tend to climb higher. In other words — this collaboration might actually be the most financially responsible bad decision you make this year. You can now blow through your Christmas money and pull up to family dinner in a full CF/GP fit.
Bet you weren’t expecting that.
Note: Your family will absolutely assume a dog chewed up your outfit. Choose your piece wisely.
What I’ve Been Loving
C’H’C’M’ recently received their AW25 delivery from Auralee, and there are several — and I mean several — pieces I would buy right now if it weren’t for tariffs and the heavy conversion. The Fine Wool Rib Knit in Dusty Green, Airy Wool Check Shirt in Light Blue/Beige, and Product Dyed Organic Cotton Duck Blouson are sitting in my cart. Do I start a GoFundMe?
I’ve yet to see their pieces in person, but after their latest post, you can count me in on whatever Amachi releases for FW25. For now, I’ve highlighted a few favourites available at Vision of Fashion — the Mud Brown Fabric Forming Anorak, Nomadism Wrapped Shirt, Double Knee Heavyweight Cargo Pants, and Dark Brown Meeting Jacket.
Componium Ensemble — an ensemble helmed by Spencer Doran of Visible Cloaks — released their first full-length project a few weeks ago, titled 8 Automated Works 八つの自動作曲作品集. It’s all I’ve been listening to lately. Highly recommend.
Speaking of footwear: Comoli released their collaboration with Guidi — the VS Back-Zip Boots, featuring a thicker Vibram sole that gives sneaker/boot energy. The black pair comes in nubuck, while the brown features a softer suede. I wish I could pull this off tbh.
It’s crazy how you’re still sleeping on Gathering. I’ve got way too much in my cart that I’m looking to grab real soon. I was originally going to hold off on showing you my picks, but I’ll put you on rn — Handwoven Wool Farmer’s Jacket, Yak Wool Beekeeper Jacket and Farmer’s Coat, Sheep Wool Fisherman Hoodie, and Beekeeper Shirt.
What I’ve been watching recently. One episode left. Kaptain Sunshine has piqued my interest recently after seeing their Cotton Hemp Work Coat the other day — a nice alternative to the aforementioned Auralee joint. Their Cotton Hemp Hoody Jacket, Cashmere Shirt Jacket, Walker Coat, and Sheepskin Half Coat would also make lovely additions to anyone’s wardrobe (especially mine).
A homie of Duchump — and easily one of the tallest people I know — William Frederick just released part one of FW25. Genuinely gorgeous work. The Brushed Wool Cashmere Airport Jacket, Plaid Wool Gauze Cafe Shirt, Studio Box Tote, and Yarn-Dyed Herringbone Atelier Pant are some of my favourites. All hits, no misses. Big love, Bill!
The Wool Twill Shirt and Trousers by Caveat should be considered for those looking for Lemaire-esque design without Lemaire-esque pricing. It seems to drape beautifully — I may look into picking the set up for myself.
I’ve been watching Mobile Suit Gundam 0083: Stardust Memory lately. It’s only 13 episodes long, but this particular animation style gets me every time.
Tohnai (a sleeper brand I’ve mentioned before) dropped a few new pieces at select shops, including their Garment Dyed Linen Stripe Work Shirt, Chunky Wool/Cashmere Sweater, and Washed Silk Open Collar Shirt.
Evan Kinori will be releasing a collaboration with Oliver Church next week in London — for those in the UK, I recommend going. Mad ting, as they say. Who “they” is, I do not know.
Okay guten bye bye.
Thanks for making it to the end — I genuinely appreciate it.
If you’d like to chat about anything covered here, or swap thoughts on past pieces, I’m always open. And if this resonated with you, consider sharing Duchump with someone who might enjoy it too.
- Chris