I Spent $18,000 and All I Got Was This Post

Thoughts on fashion’s latest debuts — Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander — with detours into Lea Boberg, Lauren Manoogian, and the brands quietly shaping style today.

Before We Begin —

In case you’re reading Duchump for the first time, or you’ve been MIA (like me), you can catch up on my latest work — the last three posts are just below:

• Very Nice Niceness

• We Need More Hot Dogs at Runway Shows

• Cringe Culture

• The Art of Storytelling: A Conversation with Greg Jackson

Please consider leaving a like and sharing this publication if you enjoyed reading this article, found it informative or fun, or if it simply helped pass the time.

Thank you for your support. Any and all feedback is appreciated.

---

Debuts — Bottega Veneta & Jil Sander

I’ve got a lot on my mind right now — collections, debuts, pickups, ass, etc. — so let’s skip the pleasantries and get straight into it.

It’s the season of debuts, and if I’m being completely honest, it’s been underwhelming across the board. The only true standout is Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, and you can’t tell me otherwise. Texture was the name of the game here. The collection felt like a sensory room you’d actually want to spend time in, showcasing brilliant craftsmanship through exceptional leather weaves and the surprising use of recycled fiberglass in skirts, sweaters, and dresses. The latter brought a quiet surrealism to the runway — deceiving, clever, and completely unexpected. Every look felt like a wearable work of art.

Looks 24 and 42 from SS26 by Bottega Veneta.

As for the former, look 13 stood out to me with its snake-scale weave — the kind of piece that would leave a conspiracy theorist convinced we’re being overruled by reptilians. It reads as both defensive and protective — sturdy and thick, yet softening over time. There’s a delicateness hidden within its strength, making it one of my favourites from the season.

What impressed me most was the balance throughout the collection: warmth meeting intensity, drama meeting whimsy. It offered so much without ever feeling overbearing — a confident debut from one of the few female appointments during fashion’s revolving door of creative directors, which is disappointing to say the least.