We Need More Hot Dogs at Runway Shows
From Gabriela Coll to Niceness — we're going over a few FW25 highlights.
Before We Begin —
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Checking In
The summer heat has me at a standstill.
I won’t lie to you — it’s been quite nice spending time away from fashion and taking time for myself. If I can be real with you for a moment — picture me leaning in — I’ve found my self-confidence again, and it’s wonderful. This isn’t a therapy session, so I won’t bore you with the specifics, but we can chat about it in person over a glass of wine.
As for fashion, I’m feeling excited about it again. Maybe it’s the colder weather rolling in, but the spark’s back. Swapping my usual fashion content for magazines like Fruits has helped — seeing more genuine and exceptional fits. Being more active through hiking and running has helped too, even if my knees ache like Greg Oden’s (former Trail Blazer, retired after too many knee injuries).
Now that I’m healed, I figured it was time for a scandalous purchase. Okay, maybe not scandalous — but big. I’ve been obsessed ever since I first saw it.
Let’s take a peek, shall we?
No. 286 Cropped Oversized Jacket by Gabriela Coll
Remember the first time you laid eyes on a Costco hot dog?
A wave of peace and enlightenment hits you — time freezes, the world blurs, and all that matters is the dog in your hand. This is how I felt seeing Gabriela Coll’s latest drop at Neighbour, and let me tell you — my bank account is frightened.
Gabriela Coll Garments remains relatively under the radar in North America, which is surprising given how relevant — and quietly timeless — the pieces are. We’ve seen several articles mention how we’re on the hunt for good clothes, yet they fail to bring up Gabriela Coll. It leaves me wondering — how hard are you searching here?
That said, I’ll try to stay objective: the collections, past and present, do have their quirks. Sizing can be inconsistent, certain garments carry imperfections (for instance, one of their recent silk/cupro shirts has a collar where one side is noticeably larger than the other), and some pieces simply defy practicality — see the No. 63 Canvas Folded Jacket.
But knowing Gabriela’s background in Fine Arts, these oddities start to make sense. The work feels less like conventional fashion and more like an ongoing art project — personal, imperfect, and deliberate. It feels sincere, and it’s something I’ve grown to seek out and appreciate more.
Wait, shit — I forgot to actually review the jacket.
It’s kind of insane — in the best way. The jacket sits somewhere between a short trench (think Lemaire) and a Swedish military motorcycle jacket, reimagined with a contemporary touch. It’s cropped brilliantly, allowing for layered drama underneath — like the striped Polyploid long-sleeve I’ve paired it with, shown above. But if there’s one standout detail, it’s the collar: adjustable and structured, it can be styled high to give the whole look a sharper, almost sculptural silhouette. I’m a sucker for a high-neck collar, and this absolutely satisfies that itch.
Okay, what’s next?
Celine SS26
Words by Andrew Kolczynski
I know, I know — I’m just another guy reviewing the Celine collection. You come to this Substack for smaller, conscientious labels — and textiles that take three generations of Japanese sons to develop. The fuck am I doing talking about Celine?
Well, Chris said I could! So shut up! This is my time!
Since Phoebe Philo, Céline has anchored itself as the label of sophistication, and for good reason: Phoebe’s collections — that brought architecture, art, and design into accessible yet nuanced and elevated clothing for today’s woman — are, well, honestly still unparalleled. You want refreshing inspo? You can still reference her work at the house. While Hedi Slimane surely opened up the Celine audience through a host of late-night and rave-adjacent outfits, he carried the torch through his near-perfect French styling. I even bought a pair of his boxers, and my girlfriend knows them as my “when you wanna go out and be a slut” Celines.
Suffice to say, Michael Rider has some big shoes to fill for his first collection.
I’ll keep my thoughts short and sweet because, even though this collection was a staggering 72 looks (enough with this bullshit, by the way — just like barely any musician has enough for a 90-minute album, most of you designers don’t have enough to say for more than 30 looks), the offering was a refreshing take on what Celine has come to be known for.
This collection offered something Celine has been missing: joy.
Phoebe Philo’s Céline was for the serious woman who eschewed art openings for the quiet of a Wednesday afternoon talking directly with the gallerists. Slimane’s Celine sometimes felt stuffy in its perfection — even his most grungy outfits felt pristine. I now look through Rider’s Celine and boy, does this shit look fun to wear. There’s so much color, so much simple yet creative styling, a wonderful use of scarves, charms, and accoutrement that will surely appeal to every client, and these boxing sneakers that will surely sell out. Do I wish they didn’t say CELINE PARIS down the tongue? Whatever. They’re still awesome and feel quietly new in a sea of loafers and the resurgence of driver sneakers (Margiela Sprinter, Adidas Tokyos, the new Converse La Fleur shoe — did you notice these all hit the market at the exact same time and look the fucking same at different price points?).
While the word “prep” is a swear word to the liberal elite, the style of prep is undoubtedly a timeless aesthetic that can seamlessly pull in a myriad of other influences and still present cohesively. Rider, as an American and an RL alum, makes use of prep history to present a Celine for all, without losing the sense of sophistication and elevation the house is known for. He pays homage to his two predecessors — smart, effortless clothes and a love for French styling — while playing his own game.
There are indeed a few misses (remember, it is 72 looks). Look 1 is a mishap of a power-shouldered, skinny blazer paired with a big round belt buckle. I feel like I could sell most of these black dresses the same way I slung power spandex skirts at BCBG to the trap queens going to the Future concert any Saturday night in DC (shoutout to Tysons Corner Mall). Also, it’s going to take me a while to get used to skinny pants again. I possess too much ass for all that, so I’ll chalk this distaste up to personal preference.
But my gripes are cursory and short-lived (I didn’t even mention the leather gimp suit of Look 25!). It’s Michael Rider’s first collection, and I believe in development over time. I also simply had too much fun looking at a house I’ve revered for so long welcome in a joie de vivre.
Bienvenue, Monsieur Rider.
What I’ve Been Loving
Words by Christian Maradiaga
Maybe someone will resonate with this, but accessorizing has to be very specific for me. Whether it’s jewelry, eyewear, hats — I’m not one to just throw something on and call it a day. Though, I wish I was.
With eyewear, I’m particular. The size of my melon can stretch out shirts — saying this made me feel icky — and 99% of frames look silly on me. That changed when I met Aidan Cheung, founder and designer of Drypond Eyewear. We usually talk about labels we like, the state of North American fashion, and why I should be in Japan right now. But what I love most is how nonchalant Aidan is about his brand — it makes me respect and value his work even more. The quiet confidence is inspiring.
The label draws inspiration from European and American frames, creating pieces that are both timeless and innovative. Each pair is made from premium materials — such as Italian acetate — in their family-owned factory. As stated on their site, Drypond represents family and legacy, as Aidan’s father previously worked as an eyewear artisan for 20 years before opening their own factory. There’s an exchange of knowledge, tradition, and technique — creating a form of expression that stems from a personal, intentional place.
I’ve since picked up both the Salvi (Brown/Light Grey) and the Colwin (Silver/Light Grey), and have been wearing them regularly — the Salvi especially. Inspired by Parisian style in the ’50s, this frame is both ridiculously comfortable and sexy, elevating any of my looks while being versatile enough for any setting.
I’m thankful to have met someone so dedicated to their craft, and I believe Drypond’s stock will continue to rise as more people take notice.
Since Sage Toda-Nation’s appointment as the new Creative Director for YMC, the label has since picked up steam, and has released several lovely looks for the year. I won’t front with you — I’m not very familiar with the brand, but I’m enjoying the new direction they’re taking under Sage’s vision.
(In case it hasn’t clicked yet, yes — this is the same Sage Toda-Nation from Sage Nation, aka the man behind my favourite pants of all time.)
I’m excited to see how the label evolves, and I’ve already seen people lose their minds over their Grenson collaboration — a sleek, elevated pair of shoes that I absolutely need in my rotation. Blending elements of Japanese and English fashion, YMC is worth keeping an eye on for your Fall/Winter wardrobe.
It’s hard to begin thinking about Fall looks when there’s a heatwave going on. Despite wearing limited clothing (use your imagination), I’m still roasting — even in the comfort of my own home. However, Neighbour has received their delivery from Sono for F/W, and it’s got me in an absolute chokehold.
With the intention to create a season-less wardrobe, Stephanie Oberg and Simon Holmes — founders of the British label — have absolutely outdone themselves with their latest collection. They’re known for creating garments that are very fluid, versatile, and exceptionally well-crafted — opting for organic, high-quality fabrics. They’re introducing a new form of luxury: one that cares for ethical and environmental standards, remaining conscious of their practices and processes when working on their craft, and keeping sustainability front of mind.
For example, the Terra Alpaca and Wool Caspa Cardigan that I previewed on Instagram features the following description (taken from Departamento):
“Gently knitted by hand-operated knitting machine and linked together by hand in a cottage on St Marys Island, Kent. This is our most durable jumper in 6 ply high twist yarn to prevent any stretching or pilling — will last a lifetime.
Made from 50% organic wool and 50% alpaca high twist, extra durable yarn. Ethically bred and responsibly farmed GOTS certified. Completely untreated in the natural color of the animal, spun in Biella using 100% green hydro energy. Features Corozo nut buttons.”
It’s safe to say I’ll be picking this up. However, there is one particular item that raised my cholesterol levels a smidge. Their Bo Bomber 2003 — this literally sounds like something off an INTERPOL list — is something to be seen, felt, held, worn. I’ve been hesitant to re-introduce this particular style of jacket into my wardrobe, but this is truly the jacket to end all jackets. It’s the type of garment that remains in your wardrobe for a lifetime — during your highest highs and lowest lows, during your most pivotal and memorable moments.
Made from recycled wool, the exterior is softer than you can imagine. Consisting of a beautiful chocolate brown, with two front pockets, dropped shoulders, and a button closure. Everything feels so refined, so intentional.
It’s what luxury should be. I’ve yet to see any product images online, so you may have to check sites like Neighbour and C’H’C’M’ regularly to see if it’s dropped, as Rendez-Vous has already sold out.
A must-have, truly.
(Update: Sono is now available online at Neighbour and C’H’C’M’.)
Before we move on, can someone confirm how much a kidney goes for on the black market? Because the Thom shirt by Niceness has my full attention, and I’d like to start making some moves here.
I’m not very familiar with the label, but from what I’ve read so far, Yuichi Goh — founder of the Japanese label — has a strong focus on quality craftsmanship, and after looking through their collections, it seems like he has an eye for relaxed, casual silhouettes. Their work feels very grounded and accessible, releasing garments that blend both simplicity and elegance.
I’ve browsed their AW25 collection — titled Fictional Realities — to see what they have in store for us, and I’m seeing several standouts. First, the styling is well-done: bringing in an effortlessly chic approach to their looks, almost as if they’ve thrown this on as they’re rushing out the door. Everything seems thoughtfully selected and curated, though some of the graphics/imagery does throw me off a smidge from an otherwise cohesive collection. I’m not against playful imagery like Bugs Bunny, however, it cheapens the collection in a way — at least to me.
Niceness is a label absolutely worth looking into, but for the love of god get your greasy paws off the Tommy Shirt until I’ve picked it up.
Also, here’s Ken looking fantastic in Róhe — images taken for Velour Amsterdam. I’ve got nothing to say other than: damn, this looks incredible.
Thanks for reading!
I appreciate your support as I work to grow this newsletter into something bigger — a full publication with interviews, collection coverage, and maybe working with larger publications.
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- Chris
The title of this article was all I needed to know that it was going to be an excellent read.
it’s the big melon universe and i’m just a part of it 🙂↕️ grateful 2 contribute