Very Nice Niceness
It's okay, daddy's back. Summer break’s over — new brands, sneaky pickups, and a new round of weekly picks. From Niceness to Barbell to Bisown, this one’s for you.
Before We Begin —
In case you’re reading Duchump for the first time, or you’ve been MIA (like me), you can catch up on my latest work — the last three posts are just below:
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Summer Break Is Over —
I honestly didn’t think I’d be coming back, despite saying countless times how much I want to write again. Some of you might relate — or maybe I’m just extra as hell, which is usually the case — when I say that sometimes you just need to take a month, or longer, off from what you’re doing and actually live a little. Inevitably, you will get that feeling to pick up where you left off, and roll with it.
To update you on my life, I’ve recently taken up hiking and have another big trek planned at the end of the month. With the amount of Peak Performance I’ve got and my new Stealth Black Norda 001As, I can confidently say I’m ready for the trails. Though I did almost die on one hike after saying the same thing. We’ll find out soon enough, brother.
My wardrobe’s also seen some exciting additions, with bangers like Sunflower’s Anthracite Washed Hoodie, Niceness’ Tommy Work Shirt, and the Caspa Cardigan Terra by Sono. There’s one upcoming pickup that will leave you in awe — but that’s coming next week. Until then, you’ll have to use your imagination. Just don’t get too crazy, pervert.
Ah, I’ve been trying on plenty this past month — gems from Leo Boberg, Kaptain Sunshine, Gabriela Coll Garments, and a lot of Cottle. I’ve got thoughts on Cottle to share soon, but for now, run (don’t walk) to a stockist carrying Gabriela Coll. That’s the brand right now — brilliant, brilliant work. My trip to New York didn’t work out this year, so I’m bummed to have missed their pop-up. I’m not crying, you are.
Anyway, we can chat more in person or via DM. For now, let’s dive into what I’ve been feeling lately — other than early-onset seasonal depression.
What I’ve Been Loving —
One of the ongoing threads pulled between each Japanese label I’ve talked about is the sense of purpose behind each collection, item, fabric, etc. Niceness, founded by Yuichi Goh, can be added to this ever-growing list.
Goh designs from a deeply personal aesthetic, carefully choosing textiles that elevate vintage-inspired classics. Take the Tommy Ombre Work Shirt: based on American workwear of the 1930s, it may appear straightforward at first glance, but the craftsmanship is staggering. It’s cut from ultra-fine wool yarn, with every detail and stitch hand-done in India — giving the piece a refined, artisanal finish.
With the intention to design garments reflective of his personal aesthetic, Goh carefully chooses textiles and taking inspiration from vintage-classics. Take the Tommy Ombre Work Shirt: based on American workwear of the 1930s, it may appear straightforward at first glance, but the craftsmanship is staggering. It’s cut from ultra-fine wool yarn, with every detail and stitch handcrafted in India — giving the piece a refined, artisanal finish.
It’s without a doubt my favourite piece I own. It blurs the line between art and fashion, and it’s one of many reasons I’ve become such an admirer of Goh’s work. His approach is meticulous, deceptive in its simplicity, and utterly brilliant. What might look ordinary reveals itself, upon closer inspection, as something extraordinary — something Goh himself would wear. That, to me, is what drives Niceness: garments rooted in daily life, elevated with an elegance and comfort that feel universal.
Wearing Niceness feels like stepping into Goh’s own wardrobe: intimate, meaningful, and an antidote to a rather empty and superficial industry.
Listen, I know I said we should gatekeep less, but my opinion shifted after seeing how many twerps keep DMing me about the stuff I’m wearing. If you’re not taking the necessary time to research, find labels you actually like, try things on, and beta-test your fits, then don’t expect me to hand over the keys.
That may sound tough, but I’m keeping it real. It’s like a math test — you only get full marks if you show your work, not for just copying the answer. With that aside, I won’t gatekeep this next brand — barbell object.
The designer, who stays anonymous and has literally zero online presence, designs around personal and physical insecurities. As we age, we get hyperaware of every little shift in our bodies — and social media’s rotating cast of uncanny, trend-chasing characters only makes it worse, practically body-shaming the most normal of things.
With Barbell, the clothes are meant to be worn forever. It’s not just about durability; it’s about fit, comfort, and adapting with the wearer as they age and evolve. Honestly, it’s the first time I’ve heard of a designer putting that idea front and center, and it’s refreshing. We always hear brands talk about creating pieces that will “last an eternity,” but that assumes we’ll stay the same forever. Barbell, on the other hand, accepts change as inevitable — and designs for the lives we actually live.
The textiles reflect that same care — think silk/cotton blends, wool/linen combos — and the price points are surprisingly fair. Laidback has their V-Neck Sweater at ¥23,100/$215 CAD, while Eins&Zwei carries the 3B Shirt in a wool/linen blend for ¥33,000/$307 CAD.
For my fellow Comolians, Barbell is worth a deep dive. These mysterioso brands remind us why we fall in love with clothes in the first place — not because they’re loud or trending, but because they’re thoughtful, personal, and built to last.
And in Barbell’s case, built to grow old with us.
There’s something so special about digging through the endless rabbit holes of Instagram, blogs, and shop drops to find a brand that’s still small, has minimal social presence, but somehow already making great garms. It’s like discovering El Dorado — except instead of gold, it’s clothing you actually want to wear.
That brand? Bisown.
Launched in 2023 as a unisex label, Nakade Yuka has released a few collections with the intent to dress well for yourself, blending elements of Japanese and Western influences, and inspired by her grandfather, who ran a clothing store when she was little.
Yuka emphasizes minimalism, stemming from her appreciation for the sturdiness and sleek elements of German design, while also bringing a playful approach through selective use of color — highlighting pops of Easter yellow, chocolate brown, and the perfect shade of teal. Despite the bold colour choices in some garments, the collection is easy to wear, and can be styled beautifully together. Browsing their Instagram, I can also see Auralee-esque influences in styling, fabric choices, and overall aesthetic.
In an interview with Coverchord, Yuka shared her creative process when designing unisex pieces:
“I try to bring in elements that reflect my own sensibility. For example, when working on more masculine items, I sometimes ask a male pattern maker to create a piece for women.
On the other hand, when I want to add more feminine curves to a menswear item, I’ll ask a female pattern maker to collaborate. I believe true individuality often comes through in the subtle details that may not be immediately noticeable.”
To ensure comfort and functionality, Yuka tests how each garment fits, washes, and wears over time. Personally, I believe Bisown will resonate with fans of Wanze, Auralee, and Studio Nicholson.
I’ll continue researching and share my findings soon. For now, take a peek for yourself and let me know what you think.
One of my sneakiest pickups — and surprisingly one of my favourites over the past few years — is the Graphpaper/Puma Speedies that dropped in August. After staring at GP’s Instagram photos of these Pumas, holding my phone two centimetres from my eyes, and mentally disassociating for an undetermined period of time, I concluded that they absolutely had to join my rotation.
I mean, they’re ridiculously comfortable and go with almost any outfit thanks to their colour and design. They’re made from three different leathers — smooth, short suede, and nubuck (lovely name for a boy). In my opinion, these are the end-all, be-all of Speedcats, and I swear I feel ten years younger when I wear them.
★ ★ ★ ★ ☆
Note: Giving it 4 out of 5 solely because they hurt my knees if I wear them for too long since they’re flat as hell.
Weekly Picks —
Moving forward, I’ll be highlighting five individual pieces at a time — why I picked them, what I learned from trying them on (when I can), and some actual insight beyond just saying buy this. For now, as we ramp production back up, here are five of my current favourites.
Mizuno
Wave Prophecy Morelia Neo Black
$340CAD
Note: I tried these one out of curiosity — it’s like walking on a bed of clouds. They may look like a weapon in-person, but I cannot recommend these enough for my freaks. If you want photos of them on, let me know and I’ll send them over. Photos of them off will cost you though.
Lea Boberg
LB-16 TP Jacket
$1,750CAD
Aquellos Ojos Verdes
Windsor Wide Collar Shirt
$635CAD
My Beautiful Landlet
Raime Trousers
$502CAD
Gabriela Coll Garments
Fine Wool Shirt Green Herringbone
$980CAD
Thanks for reading!
I appreciate your support as I work to grow this newsletter into something bigger — a full publication with interviews, collection coverage, and maybe working with larger publications.
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- Chris