New Year, New (Kinda the Same) Me
A year-end reflection on growth, fear, and staying honest — along with the designers and pieces that caught my eye recently. Yes, there’s also a Duchump giveaway.
Before We Start
If you’re new here, you can catch up on some recent work — I’ve made my last three posts free to read for the next week:
Basic? (How Japanese brands get labelled “boring” or “expensive,” and the disconnect between passion, content, and algorithm-driven taste)
I’m Not a Hater, But I Am a Hater: The current state of menswear discourse & fashion bros
Fabric First, Silhouette Second: An interview with William McNicol
If you’re enjoying Duchump and want to help keep it going, consider subscribing. Between tracking down pieces, speaking with designers, and writing these essays, this project takes more time than my screen-time report would like to admit—and your support genuinely makes it possible.
If this piece resonated, feel free to like, share, or pass it along.
Thank you for being here.
Time of Reflection
(Be good and read until the end. Giveaway details are down there.)
My tummy hurts rn.
It feels like Jesus — or whatever holy power you believe in — accidentally got their thumb caught on the edge of their screen, unknowingly speeding our lives up to 2x. Maybe they were distracted by the aftermath of season three of The Secret Lives of Mormon Wives, or endlessly searching for the Sulfur Dyed Whip Cord Jacket by ssstein. Which, by the way, I’ve finally managed to get my hands on.
Sorry, Jesus. I beat you to it.
Even though this year flew by, there were pockets of time where I managed to hide — deliberately slowing things down to better understand myself, my intentions, and where I’m actually headed. Whether you’re an influencer, a writer, or orbiting the fashion content space in any capacity, it’s worth auditing your work: what still resonates, what no longer does, and what might be shifting — consciously or not.
This can show up in your style, the way you create, or even the people you’re choosing to follow. It’s one of my favourite rituals at the start of the year — assessing what still feels true, documenting what’s changed, and noticing the growth that only becomes clear in hindsight. And this isn’t just a fashion thing — it’s a life thing.
Stagnation has always scared me. The thought of staying in one place, figuratively, has kept me moving. Taking on new projects like acting, writing, photography — just to experience new things, expand my skill set, and live. What’s strange, though, is that I’d often abandon these pursuits shortly after seeing some success — losing momentum, feeling unmotivated, or quietly moving on.
So while I told myself I was running from stagnation, I was also quitting out of fear. I used to label it as a fear of failure, but in reality, it was the fear of success. Christ, this sounds like a self-help seminar.
I’ve had my moments of self-sabotage, questioning the purpose and intent of this newsletter, choosing to “take a break,” and posting less right when things are actually popping off.
Even this past week, I had to sit my ass down and finally book my tickets to Paris (January 20th to the 26th, by the way), after days of questioning whether it was worth the time, effort, and money — or if my coverage is even worth your attention. Which is silly, really, considering the people I’ve met through this newsletter: readers who’ve told me it helped them discover parts of fashion they didn’t know existed, or brands that fit their mind, body, and soul type shit.
Or the brands that have reached out to share their appreciation for my work — sparking new friendships with people I’ve mentioned in past posts, who I never imagined I’d be talking to. I’ve always felt like an outsider looking in, but lately, at my own pace, I’ve been flipping the script, becoming a source of knowledge, transparency, and critique.
It’s an exciting time for me, after years of trial and error trying to find my place in fashion. So why am I so afraid?
Maybe it’s because this project is becoming something bigger — something I’ve always wanted. And with that comes responsibility: staying true to myself, making sure what I write has substance, and resisting the urge to turn this into filler. A growing audience can be intimidating, especially when you’re trying to walk the line between honesty and attention.
The thought of seeking validation through likes, comments, and engagement freaks me out. I dabbled in influencing on TikTok during COVID, and while the serotonin rush of something hitting is real, it also warps your perspective — narrowing creativity, adding pressure to outdo yourself, and blurring the line between people who genuinely connect with your work and those who simply double-tapped and moved on.
So I’m choosing to push forward and continue this project while staying true to the roots of Duchump — writing honestly, without worrying about whether things land perfectly, rack up likes, or ruffle a few feathers. It’s purely for the love of the game. and thankfully, I’m not alone in that shift.
More people are opting for slower, more intentional platforms like Substack, and it genuinely feels like we’re turning over a new leaf. It’s rare, and special, to witness.
The fashion community on Substack continues to grow, with publications like Present Forever and Whimpy becoming go-to sources for discovering emerging brands, thoughtful interviews, and perspectives that feel considered and alive — especially in contrast to an otherwise dull, over-cycled landscape.
I’ll be honest, I’m tired of seeing the same recycled posts about Alexander McQueen, Demna, and the broader luxury echo chamber. Luxury fashion dominates our feeds, and while the storytelling can be compelling at times, it’s also the corner of the industry most in need of honesty and critique.
At some point, the fear of losing an invitation to a runway presentation starts to outweigh the value of saying something real. We need more writing that takes risks — work that offers something new, something that engages both sides of your brain instead of politely regurgitating what’s already been discussed a thousand times.
Anyway, that’s a tangent for another day. These are just my thoughts, but I’m genuinely happy with the direction we’re headed. This year, let’s aim for more cohesive and substantial critique, accountability, and — just as importantly — supporting one another as we try to build something meaningful.
Oh, and Hanover still sucks.
What I’ve Been Loving
In my last post titled Basic?, I shared my thoughts on the current state of menswear content, and the increasingly shallow way Japanese brands are discussed — reduced to buzzwords like “same,” “boring,” or “expensive,” rather than being meaningfully critiqued.
As labels like Auralee continue to gain traction each season — and tastemakers increasingly build their wardrobes around pieces from Ryota Iwai’s collections — a divide has emerged in the menswear space. On one side are garments that are thoughtfully made, produced in limited quantities, and often scarce at retail. On the other is a Western audience conditioned by trend-driven, algorithmic brands that have always been readily available — leading to pushback against labels that deliver higher quality and more thoughtful construction, frequently at lower price points than the American brands, or basic Tik Tok brands, people are clinging to out of habit.
This discussion has stayed with me, especially during this end-of-year stretch of reflection, where it’s hard not to wonder how the dialogue will evolve in the year ahead. I’ll keep sharing my thoughts, but I’m equally curious where you land on it, and what you think is coming next for menswear.
As for today, here’s what I’ve been loving in my so-called basic, dull, expensive world.
Tíscar Espadas
The name of the game for me this year is stepping my pantussy up, and there’s one label that immediately come to mind that can help with that — Tíscar Espadas. I’ve mentioned them in previous round-ups, but their work deserves another shout because it’s simply too damn good.
The Cargo Pants, made from an organic cotton sanded twill, bring back the excitement I’ve been missing this past year. Adjustable straps along the back give the wearer real creative liberty — letting you twist, scrunch, and shout (I don’t know, I’m listening to The Beatles right now) the pant legs into whatever shape feels right that day.
The Linus Suit Trouser leans into breathability, cut from organic linen, and feels more straightforward compared to its counterparts — but in the best way. Double-wide belt loops, visible corozo buttons, and a more tailored silhouette to help elevate the look into something quieter, sharper, and more refined.
Finally, the Black Anzug Trousers — a darker option made from organic cotton sanded twill with an off-white organic cotton lining — once again give the wearer control over shape and length through subtle adjustments. A trouser that rewards experimentation.
All three will absolutely remain on my mind for the foreseeable future. Truly a special brand, and I’m very excited to be seeing them in Paris this month.
Chiahung Su
While hunting for new trousers, I stumbled onto Chiahung Su — a label quietly blending Japanese and Taiwanese Indigenous influences through ancestral textiles and traditional methods from both cultures. These are garments built with longevity in mind — clothes meant to be lived in, worn hard, and eventually passed down rather than phased out.
There’s an embrace of imperfection here that never feels careless. Each piece balances irregularity with precision, allowing the quirks of the fabric and construction to coexist with thoughtful, considered design. The result is clothing that feels human — rich with texture, intention, and a story that only gets better the longer it’s worn.
The Patch-Work Trousers and Low Crotch Wide Trousers stand out immediately, both made from organic cotton and finished with a linen lining, each fabric sourced from Japan. Beyond their overall construction and silhouette, it’s the hardware that really seals it — handmade ceramic buttons paired with vintage coins dating back to the 1940s.
Chiahung Su will remain firmly on my radar. The collections offer those surrealist, playful elements in fashion that I still love deeply. The work feels adjacent to Comme des Garçons — so if you’re a fan of Rei Kawakubo or any of the sub-labels, this is well worth your time.
Wright + Doyle
Okay, there genuinely aren’t enough words to express how much I loooooooove this brand. You see how many O’s I typed there? I’m not playing.
I recently had the pleasure of chatting with Bella Doyle — one half of Wright + Doyle, which she runs alongside her husband, Matt Wright — and I’m very excited that they’re also part of the Duchump Paris itinerary. Their work is exactly what I’ve been searching for and wanting for years. It genuinely feels like a weight has been lifted off my shoulders knowing I could realistically build an entire wardrobe from one brand and feel completely satisfied.
The Krefeld Jumper — one of their core pieces this season, made entirely from lambswool — is an immediate standout. I’ve been lucky enough to wear it myself, and it’s quickly become a go-to layering piece: perfectly oversized without swallowing you whole, warm without feeling bulky, and ideal for the colder days we’ve had lately in Vancouver. I took it out for a spin and received more compliments in a single day than I have in a long time on one garment — that is, until I wore the Bracken Wool Langhaus Jacket.
This jacket — christ almighty.
It’s expressive without screaming for attention. Simply through the details tied to its construction, it becomes the kind of jacket that does most of the talking just by existing on your body. The double-entry oversized front pockets (usable from both the side and the front), raw edges that give it a grittier attitude, adjustable hem straps, a concealed zip, and a stand collar with a button closure — all of it allows the wearer to subtly control shape and proportion.
I’ve been in the market for a jacket like this for a while now — trying on options from Evan Kinori and Lemaire — yet none really take the cake compared to this beauty. It’s incredibly wearable, pairing just as easily with more street-leaning looks as it does with cleaner, more refined ones.
This is outerwear for people who care about form, fabric, and feeling. I couldn’t be happier knowing Wright + Doyle exist, and I truly hope someone in Vancouver picks them up.
Looking at you, Neighbour.
Big Shout-Out
Ashley Ogawa Clarke, one of my favourite writers working right now, managed to do the impossible — interview Ryota Iwai.
The result is a beautiful, thoughtful piece that touches on Iwai’s background in fashion, as well as the quieter sources of inspiration behind his work — casual moments like meeting friends at a park, the subtle shift from winter into spring, and the everyday rhythms most of us overlook. It’s a rare and special read, especially considering how reserved Iwai is. The interview genuinely helped me better understand his process, perspective, and the way he moves through the world.
He speaks softly, thoughtfully — like someone who truly appreciates the mundane and finds beauty there. That sensitivity is clearly reflected in the work itself.
Exceptional job, Ashley.
Rapid Fire Thoughts
ssstein has started quietly rolling out pieces from their SS26 collection — both on their own site and through a handful of stockists, including Velour Amsterdam. Unfortunately, the jacket I had my eyes on is already gone from ssstein’s website — the Mouton Collar Padded Jacket in navy, featuring a wool kersey outer shell, a cow leather collar, and subtle flight-jacket inspiration. A tough pill to swallow, but not exactly surprising.
Though I’ve yet to see it in person, I’ve fully scoured the internet for on-body shots of Ancellem’s Kimono Knit Shirt. I can now confidently say I’m not disappointed — and that I absolutely need this shirt, specifically in yellow.
I’m currently tapped out after booking my Paris tickets, but if you’re looking for a daily spring shirt that actually feels special, this is it.
This Mud Dyed Silk Vest by Hunger Ren has been on my mind since seeing it, and I would do just about anything — legal that is, pervert — to own it.
One of my goals this year is to finally own pieces by Senui and Aviva Jifei Xue. I genuinely believe their clothes would fit me beautifully — both in silhouette and in spirit honestly. Senui’s Black Band-Collar Shirt at Acrai — hand-sewn using Japanese cotton — is currently sitting in my cart, alongside Aviva’s Sumi-Ink Cocoon Pants. And truthfully, if I had to pick just one pair of trousers to buy this year, it would be one of Aviva’s Cocoon Pants.
No contest.You know me—I will fall to my knees at the sight of a sexy, wool, boxy jacket. And yes, I’m here to report that I’ve once again collapsed after seeing Newspeak’s Thornproof Wool Military Jacket.
As they put it on their site, “This design blends several influences.” What began as a bomber jacket — cropped silhouette, rib-knit cuffs and hem — evolved into something entirely its own. The adjustable drawcord at the hem lets you play with shape, while the voluminous sleeves add a further sense of drama and playfulness.
If you’re in the market for shirts, I recommend looking at Heugn’s archive store as they do have a few options still available that would pair wonderfully with just about anything in your wardrobe. The Rob Linen Shirt, Salvatore Piccolo Collaboration Shirt, Rob Gray Stripe Shirt, and the Moriss Check Shirt are ones I’d snag if I could.
Unkruid’s Black Wool and Kelsch Cloth — if I could pull it off, I’d pick it up immediately.
For my fellow Comolians who missed out on the Felted Wool Short Zip Jacket (if someone wants to link me up with one, I will love you forever), there is a longer alternative worth considering: Barbell Object’s Double Faced Wool R/W Off Coat.
Is it as cute as the Felted Wool joint? No, but it is a strong winter option that still retains that slightly squiggly, off-kilter charm.
Giveaway
When I’m not babbling on Substack, I’m typically watching Secret Lives of Mormon Wives reading one of my many issues of Apartamento, or flipping through one of my hardcover photo books that take up way too much space. And to make sure the ambiance is right, I’ll light an incense from Aesop — though lately I’ve been leaning toward Astier de Villatte’s Yakushima scent.
This is peace for me, and I’d love to share this with you.
As a thank you for your support over the past year, I figured I’d reward one lucky subscriber with a classic Duchump prize-pack, closely tied to the things I genuinely love.
The prize includes:
A $150USD gift card to Neighbour
A pack of incense from Aesop
The latest issue of Apartamento, plus one of my special zines by Comme des Garçons
Total value: approximately $250USD
To enter, you have to like this post, just to keep track of who’s entering, and subscribe to the newsletter. Additionally, there is a tiered system for entries:
A free subscription = 1 entry
A monthly subscription = 5 entries
An annual subscription = 20 entries
The giveaway will be drawn on January 18th, with entries closing on January 15th. All physical items can be shipped worldwide, and the gift card will be delivered via email.
Best of luck, and we’ll chat soon.
Thanks for making it to the end — I genuinely appreciate it.
If you’d like to chat about anything covered here, or swap thoughts on past pieces, I’m always open. And if this resonated with you, consider sharing Duchump with someone who might enjoy it too.
- Chris
W
2026 LETS GOOOO