Before We Start
If you’re new here, you can catch up on some recent work:
Patience, Process, and the Everyday: Kartik Research & Vowels AW26: Two presentations that slowed things down in the best way: Kartik Research and Vowels. One grounded in craft and heritage, the other built on research, routine, and the poetry of the everyday.
I Lost My Luggage Going to Men’s Fashion Week: Reporting from Paris — moving between showrooms, missed luggage, and conversations around slower fashion, locality, and material honesty.
I Think, Therefore I Tastemake: My thoughts on tastemaking, influence, and intention in modern content — exploring slow style, fatigue, and what’s to come
New Year, New (Kinda the Same) Me: A year-end reflection on growth, fear, and staying honest — along with the designers and pieces that caught my eye recently
Basic? (How Japanese brands get labelled “boring” or “expensive,” and the disconnect between passion, content, and algorithm-driven taste)
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Jeong Li — Showroom
Okay, so one thing I’ve learned from this whole experience is that good time management is key. Jumping from one showroom to another — when the next is 2km away in a city like Paris, where streets are narrow and taking an Uber is somehow the worst possible option — can be brutal when appointments are stacked back to back.
All of this to say: my time at the Impossible Objects showroom was minimal, and that’s on me. Still, it didn’t stop me from seeing some genuinely extraordinary clothing. To kick things off, let’s talk about Jeong Li.
Based in Seoul, Jeong Li blends elevated technical wear with everyday functionality, adding a subtle twist of the avant-garde this season — most notably through one garment that quite honestly blew me away. For AW26, the brand leans into a colour palette that feels especially prevalent in menswear right now: grounded, earthy tones like browns, greys, blues, and a muted, Easter-tinged yellow.
Where brands such as Auralee, Bisown, and Yoko Sakamoto often use this palette to create collections that feel calm and soothing on the eyes, Jeong Li uses it differently — contrasting those hues against harsher, moodier garments. The result feels heavier, more charged, almost reflective of the current state of the world — which was my immediate takeaway when viewing the collection.
It felt as though Jeong was channeling what’s happening around us, offering a body of work that mirrors our environments right now. Whether that’s the case, or if that’s my own personal subconscious chiming in, is yet to be determined.
Despite that edge, the brand remains firmly rooted in wearability. “We’re really leaning into this idea of a city escape,” Jeong shared while walking me through the collection. “Good layering pieces — practical, but still refined.” Their nylon, water-resistant puffers, in particular, stood out as ideal options for wetter, windier climates.
What struck me most was the colouring of those puffers — greys, yellows. At first glance, they look dyed or washed, but the effect actually comes from the lining and the way the pockets are constructed. “We’re doing a lot of experimentation with transparency,” Jeong shared. “Shell materials, things like that.”
That balance between function and grit comes through most clearly in pieces like their Oiled Nappa Leather Jacket, as well as a new boot model developed in collaboration with Paracia — a name you’ve likely seen circulating lately thanks to projects with the likes of Carter Young and Colin Meredith. The leather is supplied by Knu Kim, founder and designer of the Madrid-based label, and sourced from Spain. Typically used for footwear, it is noticeably heavier than most.
The level of detail is impressive. The jacket feels almost armour-like, marked by signs of wear that suggest years of use — experiences etched directly into the material.
“We wanted to keep a sense of damage-washing — like natural ageing,” Jeong explains as I ogle the jacket, moved by just how buttery-soft the leather feels. “It really defines where the brand is heading in the future.”
While Jeong’s work has always been consistent — focused on wearability through elevated, city-driven garments — you can clearly see the potential in this new direction he’s steering toward. It’s not a massive shift, so longtime Jeong Li followers shouldn’t worry, but it does signal a new level of maturity in the younger designer’s work.
Neithers — Showroom
To summarize this collection, it felt like watching a wizard reveal their best tricks — deceptively simple at first, then quietly mind-bending once you catch on. Each reveal left me impressed, slightly dumbfounded, and wanting more from the South Korean brand.
Won Dukhyun, founder and master magician behind Neithers, presented a noticeable pivot from AW25 — a collection that feels more mature in its storytelling while maintaining the brand’s playful, inquisitive spirit. While handling pieces like the Cotton Ivory Jackets and Wool Shirts, I noticed a discreet pocket hidden along the side seam. It’s a small detail, but one that encapsulates Won’s approach: rewarding the wearer through thoughtful construction, quietly solving problems you didn’t realize you had.
As with many brands this season, tailoring played a larger role. Neithers introduced a series of blazers that appear straightforward in construction, but reveal their intelligence upon closer inspection. Inside, a layered fabric overlap near the arm opening allows air to circulate freely — improving ventilation without disrupting the silhouette. It’s function disguised as simplicity, and a recurring theme throughout the collection.
That same thinking carried into the trousers, which feature a hidden side pocket alongside a small locker loop — allowing them to be hung rather than folded. Subtle, practical details that continue to reward the wearer in everyday use.
This was a strong and well-executed collection, and the attention to detail is unmistakable throughout. That said, I couldn’t help but wish for a bit more tension — a moment of surprise or disruption to push things further, aside from what I had mentioned earlier.
While undeniably wearable and considered, collections like this risk blending into the broader conversation around “sameness” in menswear right now — thoughtful, refined, and easy to admire, but not always compelling enough to linger long after you’ve walked away. That said, a collection doesn’t need to be challenging to be good.
I just wish that, with this level of attention to detail, there was something a little more surprising to hold onto.
meanswhile — Showroom
With meanswhile, I found their collection quite exquisite. I’ve shared their theme for this season below:
“Clothing is completed only when it is worn by a person. Tools are created with the act of use as their premise. Within a tool exists a time axis defined by “use.” The accumulation of that time axis is expressed as folds of time.
Materials that conform to the body through use, stains and tears that come from being worn in harsh environments. The time spent using an object layers upon itself, continuously transforming it into a personal tool for its owner.
We have captured this ongoing transformation by isolating moments along each distinct time axis.”
There were several standouts, but we’ll start with the Temporal Fold Fireman Coat (wild name) — a silhouette currently trending thanks to the likes of Kaptain Sunshine, Auralee, and others embracing sheepskin-collared outerwear this past season.
Made from organic cotton katsuragi and hand-dyed without mechanical tension, the fabric is slowly washed and dried using natural sunlight and the seasonal winds unique to the Enshu region in Shizuoka, Japan. Respectfully, this sounds insanely hard. The uneven colour and softened wear aren’t the result of artificial aging, but of time, process, and intention. It’s a perfect embodiment of the brand’s theme this season — capturing how garments evolve as they bend and shape to their wearer, becoming something personal, something useful — a tool.
The painted collar will naturally chip away over time, revealing a beautifully worn-in effect — ideal for those looking to fast-track patina. It recalls the intentional aging seen in Prada’s latest collection, or various pieces by A.PRESSE (whom I have beef with, but that’s a conversation for another day), offering a lived-in sensibility straight off the rack.
As for the Anonymous Leather Work Jacket, it was mesmerizing to say the least. Dropped shoulders, supple leather, and a reinforced double-button front give it an edge without saying too much — the kind of garment that feels destined to stay with you for a lifetime. ‘The design draws inspiration from the function leather jackets worn by European architects and engineers between the 1930s and 1950s.” It’s an exceptional jacket — offering a perfect balance between romance and utility. Part of me wanted to ask how to place a wholesale order, the other part wanted to take it and run.
At its core, the brand remains focused on everyday wear, though it’s clearly pushing toward more elevated, preppier street-leaning elements — without losing its technical foundation. This came through most clearly in the Shironameshi Leather Luggage Vest, made from tanned deerskin (yes, really), with a removable lower half that can be worn purely as an accessory. It gives glamping, but dialed all the way up.
Alongside this were a series of nylon technical accessories — bags, gloves, pouches — that retained the brand’s original ethos: practical, adaptable, and purpose-driven. One standout I unfortunately didn’t see in person was an updated iteration of the Air Circulation System Vest, now offering both heating and cooling capabilities. The concept still breaks my brain.
As Naohiro Fujisaki, founder of the brand, has stated, Meanswhile operates on the idea that function follows form, and form follows function. Clothing isn’t viewed simply as something to own and accumulate over time, but rather as a daily necessity.
“Clothing should be seen and treated the same as food and shelter,” and he’s right. It’s a philosophy long embedded in the work of many Japanese designers, and one that the Western world is only now beginning to embrace — prioritizing quality over quantity, and intention over excess.
Additional Thoughts (Edited at 7:55PM)
I finally understand the appeal of attending a runway presentation. Seeing Kartik Research’s collection in person — swaying, twisting, and turning down the runway — felt genuinely ethereal. If you missed my last post (Substack, once again, failed to push it out), you can read it here. It covers Kartik’s AW26 collection, along with my visit to Vowels’ presentation as well.
Shopping in Paris is a lot tougher for mid-to-big boys. There’s rarely anything in an L/XL at secondhand designer spots, and many retail stores are carrying the same pieces you can already find back home. Attempting to shop here has made me appreciate the smaller boutiques I frequent even more — the lack of diversity in larger stores, whether they’re department stores are just larger-ish boutiques, is glaring. I’ve already picked up four things since returning.
Logistically, you need at least 45 minutes between appointments. Getting from a showroom near Palais de Tokyo to another in Le Marais without running into issues — slow roads, long distances, train delays — was rarely straightforward and quick.
This almost feels redundant to say at this point, but I love Auralee’s latest collection. There’s no stopping Ryota Iwai’s dominance in menswear right now. The colour choices this season felt more prominent than ever — purples, blues, yellows, greens, reds — colours people love to claim are “everywhere,” yet still aren’t nearly used enough. We saw a similar confidence in ssstein’s collection as well, which I’ll be touching on soon. Looks 6, 7, 16, 25, 34, and 43 were some of my favourites.
What’s equally impressive is Iwai’s ability to send out all-black looks that still feel incredibly rich. We’re watching a master at work. Despite the noise around Japanese brands being “expensive,” “simple,” or “repetitive,” Iwai continues to stay firmly in his own lane — focused on craft, proportion, and creating some of the most beautiful everyday garments you can wear.
I had the pleasure of meeting the owner of Acrai in Antwerp and made sure to tell him how much I love the store. I’ve been slowly weaning myself off rigid “buy lists,” but there are a few pieces currently available at Acrai that feel worth sharing. Haider from Gathering agreed that adding Hunger Ren to the roster was a strong move — from conversations throughout the week, their garments have become increasingly sought after. This silk vest is a perfect example of why their name keeps rolling off everyone’s tongue.
Aviva Jifei Xue remains in my top five brands to interview. I’ve loved their work for a minute now. Their Antique Bronze Stripe Shirt and Pants, currently available at Acrai, are a bit loud, but I’d happily add them to my wardrobe — alongside the Mud-Dyed Sport Jacket and Sumi-Ink Cocoon Pants.
I’ve also recently reached out to a designer who has only just begun showing in Paris under their own name. After finally beating the flu I caught on my flight home, I visited Neighbour and tried on a few of their pieces — and honestly, they left me buzzing. These garments feel like a return-to-form in menswear: classic and tailored, but still playful through curved side-seam cuts, layered adjustable collars, and a beautifully cropped cashmere sweater with (in my opinion) a perfect collar. Flattering, comfortable, elevated. More on them soon — but from what I’ve read, they’ve already caused a stir since their debut collection last year. I also heard Ryota Iwai was seen wearing their pieces head-to-toe while taking his bow for AW26.
I bumped into Chris Kontos of Kennedy Magazine at the Vowels event. He oozed confidence — a real character, absolute chiller. I regret missing his event, as I would’ve loved to grab a copy of the latest issue.
As for Gnorda (the Gnuhr/Norda collaboration) — while the garments were quite nice, the shoe itself was disappointing. I was hoping for something more playful, especially given Gnuhr’s approach to marketing and design. It felt oddly restrained — a missed opportunity considering how much potential there was to do something genuinely exciting.
Although I’ve drifted away from wearing Sacai over the last few years, I’ve continued to appreciate their collections — with AW26 being another strong outing that I’ll touch on later. That said, a handful of recent arrivals on SSENSE have caught my attention and found their way onto my wishlist: the Navy Stripe Knit Pullover, along with their Multicolour Khaki one, Faded Denim Jacket, Khaki Nylon Twill Trousers, Nylon Twill Coat to match, and Chalk Stripe Trousers.
Despite spending eight days in Paris, I didn’t have a single good steak frites. How does that even happen? Who can I call to file a complaint?