Weekend Chat
With arms wide open, under the sunlight. Welcome to this place, I'll show you everything. Unkruid, Prada SS25, and one of my favourite magazines.
I should finish transcribing our first interview for Duchump, but my mind’s always going zooooooooom and I wanted to quickly write a new post to share what’s been on my mind recently. I promise to have this interview live and ready for you by early next week. Until then, I present you with this.
Latest Obsession
Honestly, I might name my first-born this just because of how much I’m starting to love this brand, and because of how cool it sounds when you say it. I’m talking about Unkruid.
The Belgian brand, from what I’ve gathered so far, seems to have a deep belief in being more self-aware with yourself, your surroundings, and “observing the past, present and future.” I mentioned this in a previous post, but I’m noticing a recurring ethos and motif with the brands I’m beginning to follow which is a nice change of pace from the old “I’m gonna screenprint ‘fuck’ on a shirt” days.
When it comes to their garments though .. christ. Despite their prices being a bit high, it’s definitely justified by the quality of fabric they’re using, and how ridiculously well-designed everything is, oh my god. Xiaolin and I convinced Emily to try on their Shepherds Coat, and we were not disappointed.
It’s a canvas coat, so the way it folds and crinkles as you’re moving gives it plenty of character. Something that will evolve over time with its shape and structure, so in a way, you are documenting your experiences, memories and moments every time you throw it on. It will age, it will fade, it will wrinkle, but there’s a beauty to it that we should learn to appreciate more. Time to watch The Substance.
An album that comes to mind when I think of Unkruid is Green by Hiroshi Yoshimura. It’s an album I carry with me to feel grounded, one that’s been in rotation on my best days, and my worst. Similar to my apprecation for Green, I feel Unkruid’s philosophy is to create garments that will be there throughout your life; worn on your best days, but also your worst, through thick and thin.
Unkruid Picks: Pullover Shirt in Moss Green, Bow Sleeve Shirt, Janker Jacket, Heavy Double-Satin Baggy Pants, Charcoal Shepherds Coat.
Kennedy Magazine
Chris Kontos, what can I say. It’s been an absolute pleasure collecting copies of Kennedy Magazine throughout the years, as it’s easily become one of my favourite publications for a variety of reasons. Style of photography, page design, art direction, type of paper, interview style, etc.
One thing I’ve always respected is how stripped back the creative direction is, as if you’re a fly-on-the-wall; taking a peek into someone’s day-to-day life and watching them throw it all into a book. The interview style is so casual and genuine, you almost feel like you’re in the same room - ready to throw in your own thoughts that are relevant to the conversation.
Honestly, the latest issue of Kennedy made me appreciate my own work again after years of comparing myself to my peers and feeling inferior.
There’s one little blurb in the interview with Christophe Brunnquell that mentions how fashion editorials these dayas have lost a bit of charm, which I can agree with. It does feel like what we’re seeing more of are these campaigns that are too polished, or too extraordinary, that it takes away from the subject, or the simple white t-shirt you’re trying to sell.
This made me want to go back to the drawing board and begin working on my next project. What that is, I do not know, but it’ll come to me eventually (2025, the year I start my career as a trap artist).
When you’ve got a moment, I highly recommend visiting their website, or even better, pick up a copy of their latest issue and flip through it immediately. You won’t be able to put it down, I promise.
Kennedy Magazine - Issue 15 ‘Paris’
Prada SS25
Honestly, I’ve been thinking about this collection recently and the sense of comfort it brings me each time I see it.
With its rapid growth, technology is something that remains both a fascination of mine, but also a fear that continues to build year after year. Whether its surveillance, censorship, mass-hackings and outages; the list goes on and on. Hell, Google Gemini just revealed its true colours - we all finna be ruled by AI Bots that you tortured with your Geology homework, or asking “what is a tariff” after voting for Trump. I see u.
With Prada SS25, it reminded me of a time when people were drawn to technology in a less dystopian way, and more of a “here’s a vibrator” kind of way. For example, the fit below looks like what you would wear to go see a countertop microwave for the first time:
Also, seeing the Space Age, Pierre Cardin-esque influence in some of these looks - gorgeous!
This collection, at least to me, has a bit more of Raf’s spice than Miuccia’s, and it feels like I’m being taken through Raf’s rolodex of surrealist influences. It’s got, again maybe just me, this Soviet-futurist vibe, something you would see from a Tarkovsky film maybe. It makes me want to listen to Radioactivity by Kraftwerk in all honesty, while maybe screening Stalker and jumping into fetal position, thinking about how cold the future could/will be.
The colour choices are also very reminiscent of Raf’s solo work from maybe SS20 to SS23, which to some, may not be a great thing as FW21 was the only real good season from that timeline in my opinion.
Regardless, this show remains as one of my favourites of the season. The subtle hints of BDSM in look 2, 31 and 49 that make me want to revisit Robert Mapplethorpe’s work and become a leather daddy. Look 45 reminds me of the goddamn clock Dr. Manhattan pulled outta Mars, while the headgear in a few fits look extraterrestrial, like the alien from Signs that scarred me for life (open to see cute photo of moo deng).
As much as I love the partnership of Miuccia and Raf, I do wonder how long it will last. Will he join one of the many brands that are currently missing a creative director? I don’t think so, though I’d rather retire than bop over to another label at this point and keep pumping stuff out. We don’t need another Coldplay-like situation. I mean, have you listened to their new album? Boys, we gotta wrap IT UP already.
The End
Well, that concludes another batch of thoughts and opinions. If there’s one thing to take away from this cursed newsletter, it’s to make sure you’re taking time for yourself, save up for a piece by Unkruid as it will last you an eternity, and do not stream any of Coldplay’s new tracks.
There is no selection of picks today as Wednesday covered a lot that’s still worth going through. If you’re in need of help finding something more specific, please hit me up via Instagram and I’ll see what I can do.
My interview with Jackie will be live on Monday morning, but for now, please enjoy Nicolas Jaar’s latest album.
Next Week’s Schedule:
Monday - Interview with Jackie
Wednesday - Picks for Paid Subscribers
Friday - Weekly Yap + Small List of Picks
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- Chris