Title? TBD.
Willy Chavarria, Cordera, and a selection of picks. I'm nauseous, but I still wanted to bring you the weekly goods.
I’m still battling whatever flu/bug this is, as it’s been difficult doing literally anything recently. So, I do apologize for the delay and will be writing new posts over the holidays.
Fun update: We are now looking at flight tickets to Paris as we’re taking this newsletter to PFW. My main intention is to interview a few designers that I’ve been loving recently, visit their showrooms, take a peek at their collection, etc. However, I would also love to pop into any shows/events that are happening, so if you know of any that I can be invited to - hit my line!
(Dates: January 19th - 26th)
Before we dive into this further, I’d like to make an album recommendation. You can listen to this while reading this abomination of a Substack. It’s Miles in France 1963 & 1964, available on Apple Music and Spotify.
Personal Update
So, we’re headed back to our old ways. Remember when I mentioned that I’m trying to dress less like a kid’s school project for their art class?
I’ve been going back to the Comme des Garçons side of my closet, after months of trying to steer my rotation into one that’s more practical. At a recent event here, I had pulled up in my Moleskin Jacket and Cashmere Sweater by Comoli, Balloon Skirt by Comme des Garçons (here’s an alternative), and my beat-to-death Lemaire Slippers, as I wanted to dress up a bit for the occasion.
The next day, I wondered why I reached for the Comme skirt instead of my Sages, or any of my trousers. It hit me that I’ve swung too far to the uniform side of the pendulum and did not have the balance I was originally aiming for, or thought I had, with my wardrobe. Since then, I’ve decided to document my wardrobe in order to properly track what I own, what category each items falls under, what areas I’m lacking in, etc.
Am I crazy? Well, yeah.
This has helped, however, with finding that balance between having a selection of pieces to wear to your partner’s family dinner, or a casual stroll in the neighbourhood, and having pieces that will scare a 70-year old Jehovah’s Witness (this is not a jab at my grandma). So, honestly, I recommend giving it a shot, so you can know exactly what’s in your wardrobe and see if you have any duplicates, things you no longer resonate with, and so on.
Willy Chavarria
Representation has always been something I’ve struggled with, whether it’s in acting and being asked to audition for the same stereotypical role again and again, or seeing a lack of individuals like me in creative spaces. Finally, after years of searching, I’ve found someone that I can finally connect with. Our Latin king, Mr. Willy Chavarria.
Highlighting Chicano culture within his collections, casting Black and Latin models of all sizes and backgrounds, seeing them walk the runway. In an interview with ELLE from 2023, Willy Chavarria touched on being his background and how it’s played into his design philosophy saying, “Anything I do, just automatically includes parts of my Latinx heritage.” He continues by saying, “I know there aren’t very many Latinx designers that get to my level, so I’m happy to own it and represent the Latinx community.” Truthfully, it has helped me feel more seen and accepted as a creative, but it’s also refreshing to see as the Creative Director & Designer role for fashion labels continues to be an ongoing game of musical chairs between Caucasian designers - more specifically, Caucasian men.
While his heritage plays a pivotal role in his collections, you can also see how the world’s overall tumultuous climate in general plays a part as well, as seen in the more rugged pieces like the destroyed undergarments and tanktops from SS24. “We’re kind of looking at some of the destruction in the world,” he says in ELLE’s interview, “a little bit of the dystopia that we’re all suffering from right now,” as he shows a destroyed blazer that looks like it’s been sitting in the sun with its fading all-over, yet constructed with a fine tailoring Chavarria-twist to it.
(He did mention how he received some backlash after releasing the destroyed underwear, even though he’s been showing destroyed clothing since forming the label. Same kinda underwear you got from high school that’s still in your rotation. I see u.)
Personally, I’ve been taking bits from FW2024 and SS2025. For example, look 20 from SS25 is one that I’ve been throwing on recently for everyday wear, though using my Comoli jacket instead as I’ve yet to get my hands on anything by WC. Looking through each season, especially FW24, has got me wanting to accessorize more.
To summarize, Willy Chavarria, especially during these tense times, continues to highlight the importance of Latin culture, queer culture, and the ongoing issues with civil rights and immigration within the Mexican-American community. It’s very much needed, especially with how much filler fashion is released every season. For myself, I can say that his work has brought me a kind of peace of mind, as I’ve often felt like the “black sheep” of my family. But now knowing that there are people out there, with similar backgrounds to mine, thriving in this space that, at times, still feels uninviting and exclusive - it’s inspiring.
Now, how can I get my hands on an invitation to their show at PFW.
Cordera
While on the hunt for Christmas gifts, I popped into this little shop on the island (Victoria, British Columbia) that is so tucked away, most people get lost whenever I give them directions. Now, I didn’t pick anything up, but I couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw how much Cordera they have. The island, a place where my online shopping habits worsened because of how mediocre retail-shopping is there, has this secret spot that carries a brand I love.
Founded in 2008 by Mónica and Maria Cordera, the label has become a new favourite of mine due to how timeless their collections are, and the how beautifully styled their looks are. As someone who’s been trying to find more day-to-day wear, I’ve been browsing through shops to find anything by the brand that fits me, and if it’s on sale because, bitch, we got big plans for 2025 that require m-o-n-e-y. With Cordera, their overall collection is one that is easily wearable, at least in my opinion, and can be seamlessly integrated into your current wardrobe.
(That last part made me sound very sus, but I can promise you that they are only wholesome, creative plans. Only a hint of world domination, that’s all.)
After browsing their website, christ, I felt like I needed to find a second, possibly a third, job so I can pick a few things up. Their Virgil Wool Striped Jacket and Embroidered Shirt - yup, give it to me. I’ve been trying to step my game up with trousers and it’s been more difficult than expected, but I know for sure that I need these Wool Curved Pants. Also, one thing I did not expect to want, but absolutely need it now, is their Aviator Midi Coat. Listen, I think I’m pretty cute and all, but picture me in this coat with the wool curved pants and those goddamn sparkly shoes in the photo.
I mean, come on!
To keep it brief, the moral of the story is to look into Cordera, if you haven’t heard of the brand already, to see if you can find some long-term pieces. As for myself, I’m going try to find those sparkly shoes, along with seeing if there are any Canadian businesses that carry the brand other than SSENSE, as their selection is quite underwhelming.
You can see their stockists here.
Weekly Picks
I haven’t been sourcing as much as I’m tryna rest, but I’ve found a few things that are worth looking into. However, if you’re in Vancouver, I recommend visiting the Machine Heirlooms pop-up that’s going on until the end of the month as Emily and I have found some gems.
For myself, I’ve picked up a Y’s For Men Nylon Jacket, and a Comme des Garçons Homme Navy Button-Up. Emily, on the other hand, picked up 2017 Phoebe Philo-era Céline Dress, Wool (possibly cashmere blend) Bally Coat, Dries Van Noten Wrap Shirt, Y’s by Yohji Yamamoto Purple Polka Dot Long-Sleeve, and a Felted Wool Dress by Cristaseya.
All at ridiculously low prices. The Cristaseya dress alone currently retails for $1,195 on Neighbour.
Rier
White/Ivory Button-Up
$213.65CAD
Vaquera
Lamb Leather Trucker Jacket (someone buy me this pls)
$1,193.93CAD
Y’s For Men
Wool Gabardine Coat
$439.20CAD
Polo Ralph Lauren
Brown Corduroy Shirt
$183.49CAD
LEJ
Shell Blouson Charcoal Wool
$875CAD
James Coward
Pictou Cardigan
$345CAD
Slopeslow
Yoke Top Turtleneck
$1,095CAD
Gurus
Valencia Shoe
$94CAD
Henrik Vibskov
Wheel Jacket Black
$640CAD
OCTI
Globe Stacking Ring
$350CAD
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus
Off-White Brushed Shorts
$682CAD
HODAKOVA
Beige Upside Down Maxi Skirt
$683CAD
HODAKOVA
Black Knitted Rugby Polo
$506CAD
Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme
Hand-Painted Oversized Sweater
$570CAD
UJOH
Full Open Shirt
$574CAD
Beautiful People
Wool Mohair Wide Trousers
$531CAD
Teatora
Device Coat
$1,688CAD
Closing Notes
The Art of Vlogging - what a wonderful thing. One of my latest fixations, thanks to my partner, is keeping up with two of our new favourite vloggers (nycbambi and secondhandhuns); going about with their day, hitting up events, and having the dreamiest of wardrobes. I’ve always wanted to take a stab at it, but don’t feel like I live a life worth really documenting regularly - as sad as that sounds. My vlogs would consist of me making a coffee, watching some dude perform Reiki ASMR to ease my mind, and flip through my list of shops I’ve got bookmarked.
Living my best life, truly.
Anyway, I hope to bring some more content your way over the next few weeks. If there’s anything you would like to see featured (e.g. topics, brands, designers, etc), you can always give me a shout via Instagram and maybe it’ll be include in a future post.
Thanks for reading!
Your support is greatly appreciated as I continue working towards growing this newsletter and slowly turning it into something bigger. The end goal is to turn this into a publication, featuring interviews with individuals within the fashion realm, covering collections and shows, etc. Maybe we can make it to fashion week - who knows.
My only ask is if you can please like, subscribe and share this post if you found it helpful, fun, or if it just helped pass the time tbh.
As always, thank you for your support. Love ya.
- Chris