The Idyllic Strangeness of Time
A reflection on creative burnout, process-driven menswear, and thoughtful conversations with Mark from Archie and the duo behind the LVMH Prize–nominated label Tíscar Espadas.
Before We Start
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Why This Designer Is Creating Quite the Buzz In Menswear: Before diving into our next PFW recap, let’s take an in-depth look at this Swedish designer’s philosophy, and why buyers and critics see the brand as one to watch.
I Lost My Luggage Going to Men’s Fashion Week: Reporting from Paris — moving between showrooms, missed luggage, and conversations around slower fashion, locality, and material honesty.
I Think, Therefore I Tastemake: My thoughts on tastemaking, influence, and intention in modern content — exploring slow style, fatigue, and what’s to come
Basic? (How Japanese brands get labelled “boring” or “expensive,” and the disconnect between passion, content, and algorithm-driven taste)
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General Thoughts
It could be the shift from winter into spring, the way a new year already feels like it’s speeding past us as we head into March, or just the general state of the world right now — whatever it is, I’ve felt exhausted. I can feel it physically, like there’s a weight on my shoulders that’s been slowing me down entirely. To the point where putting (virtual) pen to paper felt more like a chore than anything else.
So I stepped back for a bit.
I’ve been focusing on my health, getting back into the gym, eating better, unwinding instead of constantly thinking about the next post, the next angle, how to keep subscribers engaged. I love writing, I really do. But for the first time in a long time, I’ve also really enjoyed prioritizing my physical and mental health.
That’s where I’ve been.
During that time, I kept thinking about Paris, about the collections I saw, about AW26 and the direction we’re headed in menswear. Truthfully, I enjoyed this season. I personally gravitate toward muted tones, looser silhouettes, clothes that feel versatile and comfortable, pieces where the fabric does the talking. And this season leaned heavily into that, with more brands seemingly willing to invest more in material development, weight, texture, durability — instead of relying on theatrics or “wow-factor” pieces made from, let’s be honest, lesser fabrics.
Before you say anything, I will admit that I’m guilty in promoting several brands that fit under this bracket, but it’s purely because I’m writing about the brands I genuinely like, and why I like them. Still, how many mud-dyed shirts and trousers that look the same are we going to see before we hit our cap?
One common thread I noticed this season was the amount of development happening in the Bishu region of Japan. For context, Bishu is one of the most significant wool textile regions in the world, producing a large portion of Japan’s wool fabrics, with a history stretching back centuries. Various brands, both small and large, are working with mills there, using similar to the same fabrics, creating similar to the same silhouettes and patterns.
It’s not just a romantic “Made in Japan” detail. When you handle garments developed there, you can absolutely feel the difference. The texture, construction, care, and attention to detail; how the fabric holds it shape, feels on the body. There’s a maturity to it.
Which is where the repetition conversation becomes more nuanced.
At the same time, the number of simpler, daily-focused garments continues to rise. When are we going to get the final, perfect oversized hemp chocolate-brown button-down? Or the definitive quarter-zip jumper? Personally, I don’t see anyone beating De Dam Foundation or Rier right now for the latter. De Dam’s Virgin Wool one-size-fits-all fleece, for example, is genuinely hard to argue against.
That said, brands like Tíscar Espadas, ssstein, and Kartik Research have recently inspired me to look a bit further outward from my usual corner. Still staying true to my standards, but finding pieces that blend in a playfulness that’s often missing, without sacrificing the durable, high-quality garments I look for.
All this to say, there’s a lot that excites me in fashion right now. But there’s also a lot that bores me, or flat-out frustrates me (looking at you, Buck Mason).
Anyway, let’s get started.
1. The Buck Mason piece has been taken out, as it will be its own standalone post. Should be live in a few days.
2. Edited on March 8th — left a draft of a paragraph in the mix, lol.
Archie AW26
Mark Smith Clarke, founder of Archie, is someone who continues to fascinate me.
I’ve had the pleasure of seeing him across SS25, AW25, and AW26, and each time it’s been a genuinely great experience. At this point, it feels like catching up with a talented friend and seeing what he’s been working on — and the waves his work will inevitably make.
It’s always nice hearing what he’s been up to, but also witnessing the steady progression of the brand and his approach to design has been special to see. Each season feels like a natural continuation of the last, carrying a sentimental thread that remains central to the brand’s meaning and inspiration.
