Return To Form
We're chatting about Aviva Jifei Xue, William Frederick, and our very first guest feature. Hope you're well.
We’re getting right into it. A rant.
The fashion community today is a goddamn mess. I can’t remember the last time it was this chaotic, tumultuous, and honestly, kind of annoying. For example, Tik Tok’s fashion community, once a platform that featured plenty of genuine and authentic creators, is now a breeding ground for negativity and individuals on the highest of horses.
If you’re wearing any variation of Samba, well, you’re an NPC apparently - according to the guy that’s dressed like the Uniform Display archetype. The same people vocalizing their hatred for that darn horse shoe are the same ones that have each model of tabi by Margiela in their wishlist, waiting for it to go on sale.
Listen, I’ve still got some healing to do. There are still certain labels that leave me wanting to rinse my eyes with bleach every now and then (hint: it rhymes with Schalm Schmangels), but I’ve been changing my mindset to be accepting of what others are wearing, what labels they’re interested in, etc. It’s actually made me appreciate fashion more and in a healthier way, unlike before when I’d be all high and mighty because I’m wearing a knit by Yohji from AW20. Like, okay, calm down.
To summarize, who the fuck cares. They’re clothes, for the love of god, they’re just clothes.
Brenda Weischer made a great point about gatekeeping in one of her podcasts (tbh I just heard it from a clip she posted on TT). Gatekeeping does come across as an insecurity, as you’re now revealing your deepest and darkest secrets, and no longer feel as special as you once did. In my opinion, what’s more impressive, and shows confidence, is openly talking about x brand you’re gatekeeping and sharing it with others - showing your take on their garments; styling them, shooting them.
Anyway, that’s my rant. At the end of the day, I’m just a regular with less fashion knowledge than most, so my words may mean nothing, but at least I tried.
What I’m Loving
William Frederick
Evan Kinori, a brand with somewhat of a cult following, is one that I’ve yet to fully explore. Their collections are stunning and the level of craftsmanship, and attention to detail, is one to appreciate. It’s only a matter of time until you start listening to me ramble about how obsessed I’ve become, but until then, I wanted to chat about William Frederick - a brand I’ve recently discovered.
Their collections seems to fit in this realm, inhabited by the brilliant minds behind Yoko Sakamoto, EK, Casey Casey, Forme D’Expression and several others. I see them and immediately see a collection that ticks off three important boxes for me:
Are these easy-to-wear, everyday pieces that I can throw on without thinking?
Will it integrate well with the rest of my wardrobe?
Do they have a long shelf life in my rotation?
As Cavs fan, and this is a very recent development, it’s pretty sweet that everything by the brand is designed, developed and manufactured in Cleveland. I’ve also been listening to Kid Cudi recently - why am I on such a Cleveland kick rn?
Anyway, William Frederick is a nice addition to the rotation of brands to look out for in 2025. I’m excited to purchase my first piece, however, that will have to wait until the new year as I am currently bankrupt. Yay.
Picks: There isn’t much available right now as half, or almost half, of their collection is currently sold out. Out of what’s currently available, I love the Cafe Coat, Atelier Pant, Studio Pant, and Office Coat. Though I’d pick literally everything up if I had the chance.
Aviva Jifei Xue
Christ, I’ve been obsessed with this brand since first hearing about them. Aviva, currently based in New York, launched the brand in 2020 and they draw inspiration from their heritage after growing up in both Japan and China. Their FW2024 collection has been my moodboard recently. The styling is subtle yet elegant.
(Sidenote: The set used for this shoot is gorgeous. Literally my dream home.)
Aviva primarily uses antique fabrics, so their garments may age beautifully over time; adding character after every wear. The price point is one to keep in mind, however, I would assume the quality and design of each piece justifies why it’s this high. I’ve yet to see it in person and will do some researching in-person soon, but if I were to come to a conclusion based off garment details online + the brand’s vision, I’d say that it’s worthy of being up there, price wise.
Most of their stockists are based in China and Japan, however, we are lucky here in Vancouver as Leisure Center currently have them in their brand list. This is a brand I will be absolutely paying close attention to, and for those SSENSE-heads, they are included in their ongoing sale. I’ve highlighted a few of my favourite pieces currently available below.
Whoever buys me the Black Parachute Trousers will go down in the Duchump Hall of Fame and I will be your personal stylist for the year, or we can grab lunch - idk.
Picks: Brown Cocoon Trousers, Brown Boxy Shirt, Black Parachute Trousers, Indigo Reversible Denim Jacket, Khaki Hooded Tanker Jacket.
Nothing Ever Happens
All is quiet on the western front. Despite the media chaos surrounding creative directors rumours this year – “is John Galliano going back to Dior? What about JW Anderson? Who the hell is taking that Chanel job?” The biggest concrete news is… a Kiko Kostandov store in LA. Telfar Clemens’ first flagship store for his eponymous label in SoHo. There was a Chopeva Lowena sample sale, and now there isn’t. Wait – an update on the Chanel job. It might go to Matthieu.
If nothing is happening, what’re you gonna do about it? Maybe you should scour the likes of VANIITAS and Commune / Smitheeren07 to fill out your Christmas list. Trying to avoid spending more? Probably a good idea. I like fiscal responsibility, even if the luxury sector doesn’t – Matthieu Blazy’s cozy, winter-warmer 2024 runway is free to watch here, and, speaking of Chris’ recent (and righteously valid) Crow Tribe proselytizing, the FW1995 Comme des Garcons show is free to watch here. If you’re a Cindy Sherman fan, a poster of her advertising work for that very Comme des Garcons is available here – God save CLIMAX.
Don’t go thinking I get commission for any of this, and don’t go thinking all Christmas shopping is created equal – the sweatshop scandal embroiling Dior and Armani continues, and The Row will still run you two grand for a sweater on sale – if that’s a good deal to you, buy me one too.
Have a warm start to a cold December, and drink port if you have it.
– E.L.
Closing Notes + OOTD
Keep your eyes peeled for more posts like this, as I’m trying to grow as a writer and will be releasing more work similar to “Return To Form.” I will be covering upcoming fashion weeks and discussing my favourite collections, what’s hitting and what isn’t, and potentially interviewing more brands, creatives, etc.
If you know of any showrooms, events and/or shows that I can pop into in Paris and London, please give me a shout via Instagram. Let’s connect!
As for my latest outfit, I’ve added it below:
And here’s my latest playlist, meant for those quieter days like today (also available on Apple Music):
Thanks for reading!
Your support is greatly appreciated as I continue working towards growing this newsletter and slowly turning it into something bigger. The end goal is to turn this into a publication, featuring interviews with individuals within the fashion realm, covering collections and shows, etc. Maybe we can make it to fashion week - who knows.
My only ask is if you can please like, subscribe and share this post if you found it helpful, fun, or if it just helped pass the time tbh.
As always, thank you for your support. Love ya.
- Chris
Sick !!! Love from Nyc (of course)