NyQuil Thoughts
"i'll beat ur ass, ill beat ur ass" - kendrick lamar on fear, i think idk. we're talking about cottle, a lovely jacket by y's, what i've been loving, and that's it. actually wait there's more.
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Before We Begin
I swear to all the gods, Facebook Marketplace is a breeding ground for lowballing demons that will wear you down until you sell at their price — maybe even lower, just for the sake of ending the chat. It might just be me, but the number of Marketplace Menaces™ (yes, I am trademarking this) I’ll encounter on a weekly basis has left me with little-to-no will to live.
With the sun popping its sunussy out, I’ve had the urge to show off these gams and throw something cute together. There was a bit of an adjustment period after I shipped out a few of my more playful pieces to help fund a “wearable” rotation — as subjective as that may be, considering most of my closet was either Comme des Garçons or Yohji.
However, I did keep one item with a bit more pop than the rest, and that’s my Indigo Printed Denim Jacket by Y’s.
Whether it’s an internal expectation after turning 30, or some deeper existential factor at play — I’ve definitely lost the flair I had in past outfits. Like McQueen said: these are just clothes. They’re not meant to be taken seriously, but still, some days I find myself wondering why I’ve opted out of that whimsical sense in my outfits.
I’m a pretty quiet and anxious person, so I wonder if I’ve subconsciously muted my style just to feel more accepted here. I don’t really connect with anyone else stylistically anymore, and a few of my friends have said the same. It’s either a sea of diluted Throwing Fits-esque outfits, or archive fashion looks that aren’t body-inclusive — usually tied to creators that say “they don’t know I’m wearing Issey to the gym.”
Girl, who cares.
Trill News
There’ve been some stellar things going on recently. Andrew Kolczynski, long-time Duchump supporter, released an exceptional mini-documentary titled Four Empty Walls covering Tom’s Sons International Pleating, the iconic family-owned business in New York helmed by George Kalajian. This is one of the more honest and informative pieces of fashion media I’ve seen recently as Andrew touches on the history behind the Kalajian family, their presence within fashion, and showcasing the technical expertise in George’s craft.
We don’t often see media like this that isn’t fluffed up for the sake of the plot, so it was refreshing seeing Andrew’s approach and the honesty seen in the film. It doesn’t surprise me considering how much passion and love he has for art and fashion. Also, we do have a mini-feature coming up on his recent piece — the 1960s Swedish Motorcycle Jacket he converted into an absolute work of art. What can’t this man do.
We also saw the release of Ryan Yip’s new magazine, Fashion Review. I was originally going to add a little something, but my time management skills proved to be terrible, and I missed the deadline. However, it does feature our contributing writer Edward Luekehoelter, who you may have seen sprinkled throughout some of our posts here and there.
For those looking for a raw, more genuine perspective on fashion — I highly recommend picking up a copy for yourself. Ryan’s approach to fashion media, for those unfamiliar with it, has always been deeply informative and contextual, and it’s highly appreciated considering how much filler content is released every day.
You can pick up a copy of Fashion Review here.
Cottle
Intentionality is missing in fashion.
Whether it’s the media you’re seeing or the brands currently trending, we’ve lost the essence of intentionality behind it all. Listen, I get it — most people are going to do what they can to make a buck, especially in this timeline where we’ve got an orange lizard and an incompetent administration breaking everything they touch like a goddamn bull in a china shop. Except the bull is fully blind and strapped with explosives.
It’s been years since I first entered this rabbit hole, but there’s a reason I’ve developed such an affinity for clothing that’s made in Japan. The level of intentionality and respect seen in Japanese fashion culture — it’s unmatched, and we very rarely see this in Western fashion culture.
This thought came to me after seeing a designer’s work in person for the first time the other day.
With such beautiful and thoughtfully made garments, Cottle has quickly become a favourite of mine as their garment construction feels intentional and authentic. Their collections feel almost intimate, as if you’re being given something specifically made for you, and not for the masses. Using traditional Japanese techniques and fabrics, designer Toshiaki Watanabe has released collections that are both wearable and artistic. For example, their Leaf Vein Zen Jacket — it features the following:
Hand embroidery scattered throughout the garment
A hybrid dyeing of indigo, accidentally and experimentally achieved, giving it a greenish-blue hue
A blend of pure silk, hemp, and organic cotton
A ribbon made of pongee silk
Gold-plated buffalo buttons — an elevated version of buffalo horn buttons traditionally sourced from Southeast Asia
This level of craftsmanship is only seen in more artisanal brands like Geoffrey B. Small and Elena Dawson, as they really feel like the epitome of slow fashion. Watanabe has shared how some garments can take months to a year to create, depending on the required fabric and/or their dyeing process.
That said, Cottle’s prices can be steep — this particular jacket retails for over $4,000 CAD. Get your kidneys ready, it’s time for a fire sale. Thankfully, the brand does have more affordable options that are intended for daily use as Watanabe shares an appreciation for the “beauty of utility” and everyday objects that serve a purpose.
Something that stood out to me while reading up on the brand is how Toshiaki renovated a 130+ year-old textile factory and turned it into their office, shop, and atelier. With this, it seamlessly brings their ideas into fruition; creating a focused and efficient environment, which clearly reflects in their garments and quality of work. And, through their atelier, they can help with extending the lifespan of your garment by offering both repair and re-dyeing services.
All in all, I can’t speak highly enough of the brand. There may be an interview in the works — stay tuned.
To learn more about Cottle, visit their website to read about their history and creative process.
What I’ve Been Loving
I went a full week without picking up anything by Comoli. Yes, there were a few close calls here and there, especially after seeing their Denim Jacket, Washi Short Jacket, and a raw silk joint that was yet to be priced when I last popped through one of the eight wonders of the world — Neighbour. While teetering with the idea of picking either of these joints up, I came to the conclusion that the brand must be utilizing some kind of fabric that enables an MK Ultra-esque control over me.
Why am I so obsessed with this brand?
I emailed their team to set up an interview and talk about how the brand’s become a god-like figure in my life. Unfortunately — and rightfully so — they turned it down.
Is it because my theory is correct? Most likely. But it could also be because the brand maintains a pretty low-key presence globally. I’ve noticed they’ve increased their number of stockists, which leaves me slightly uneasy. A lot of brands that expand like this tend to evolve in ways that stray from their original ethos and design.
Still, I don’t think that will be the case with Comoli. At least, I don’t think so.
Update: Yeah, I caved and picked up the Raw Silk BDU Shirt by Comoli.
C’H’C’M’ is stocked with SS25 gems right now from Yoko Sakamoto, YLÈVE, and Stein (or ssstein, depends who you’re talking to). As of right now, I’ve got the Pleats Blouse Jacket by Yoko Sakamoto, Cotton Ramie Broadcloth Shirt by YLÈVE, and two Stein pieces — their Deformation Wide Vintage Jeans and Sheer Light Knit Skipper Longsleeve. Now, before you starting talking me off the ledge and telling me to remove these from my cart, I can assure you that I won’t be picking anything up as it’s all in USD and I can’t keep having sleep for dinner.
On the other side of the world, Paris’ The Broken Arm has it locked down with footwear. If I had all the money in the world, which I hope becomes a reality some day, I’d be picking up the following items:
Norweigan Shearling Lining Shoes by Rier
Osterly Sneaker by Namacheko
Sprinters by Maison Margiela
Wave Prophecy by Mizuno
Options 1 and 3 are my standouts, as both fit within the wardrobe I’m currently building. The former (Rier) is made from a high quality bark tanned calf leather with a shearling lining, and a rubber sole — making it quite comfortable and surprisingly water-repellant. As for the Sprinters, I’m worried that they’re not as comfortable as they look since narrower shoes like this typically leave me limping like Terry Fox (RIP King).
Finally, bottoms. If you pick any of these up, let me know so I can pay you a visit and rob you. SSENSE, evil warlords of the online-shopping realm, do have great options like the Black Fauji Trousers by Kartik Research, Upside Down Wide Trouser Shorts by HODAKOVA, Triple Cloth Hakama Shorts by Rainmaker Kyoto, Gray Box Pleats by Sage Nation, and Unified Half Cubes Trousers by 132.5 Issey Miyake.
I’ve got a few other picks, but I’m gonna keep them under wraps for now. Check back next week?
Additional Tidbits
Watching: It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia, S5 E11
Listening: Canis Major by Isola, Dai Buki by DJ Python & Jawnino, Manna by Babyfather, Trigger Finger by Zuli, and Fear by Kendrick Lamar.
Film Pick: The American Friend by Wim Wenders
Thanks for reading!
Your support is greatly appreciated as I continue working towards growing this newsletter and slowly turning it into something bigger. The end goal is to turn this into a publication, featuring interviews with individuals in fashion, covering collections and shows, etc. Maybe we can make it to fashion week again - who knows.
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Love ya.
- Chris
Absolute gem of a read 🔥
As someone who also felt a little alienated by the "Vancouver special" in terms of styling, I feel like if you feel this need to express yourself and be "the guy with the wide Comoli fits", you can kind of take comfort and feel a sense of power in that. If someone doesn't like it, fuck em, we're all paying the same overpriced rent.
Always appreciate the fits, keep on moving!