Before We Begin —
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Captain’s Check-In —
I’m trying to write this after taking some time off, but something’s got me feeling nauseous and queasy again. Maybe it’s the lobster gnocchi from the other day. Maybe it was accidentally drinking whole milk with my coffee. Or maybe it’s the flu — again. Either way, the world’s out to sabotage me — trying to keep my thoughts and opinions redacted and classified.
It’s a bummer, especially since I juuuuuuuust picked up a pair of No. 259 Linen Short Trousers by Gabriela Coll — an underrated brand I highlighted a few posts back — and the Cotton Drill 6-Pocket Pants by Comoli. The latter features beautiful pleating along the knees, cargo pockets, a wide fit, and cinched ankles that give the silhouette an extra pop. As for the shorts, well, I don’t really know where to begin.
Gabriela Coll’s vision revolves around their pursuit of a permanent wardrobe by creating seasonless collections. These pieces are meant to coexist with one another, making layering effortless and seamless — creating a more conscious, sustainable wardrobe by choosing quality over quantity. Each piece will wear, fade, crinkle, and twist — but all of that is thoughtfully considered from the start of the creative process. There’s a specialness to her collection, and if you’ve tried any of her garments on, you will understand what I mean.
Running your fingers across their Silk Pongee Crossed Trousers or one of their Linen Shirts — it’s an experience. It’s no surprise, considering the label works with some of the finest textile producers in the world — like Loro Piana and Solibati (who produced the linen for the shorts I bought) — and all their pieces are crafted in Spain, either at the label’s studio or by local manufacturers
All in all, Gabriela Coll remains on my radar as someone to interview. With a background in Fine Arts, it would be an absolute pleasure to hear them speak about their creative process, inspirations, and life outside of fashion.
Maybe one day.
(Sidenote: I’ve also picked up the Black Sprinter Sneaker by Maison Margiela, and the Oversized Longsleeve B by Polyploid.)
(Additional Sidenote: I returned the shorts and picked up the Rayon Western Shirt by Comoli instead since I had those in my wishlist originally, and there was a return in my size.)
PMW Introduction —
Well, it’s that time of year again: Men’s Week in Paris — also known as the week when nearly every IG story is either of a runway, a showroom, or someone zooming in on a celebrity. You might be wondering why this sounds salty. Well, since this publication is meant to be fully transparent — I am a bit salty.
Unfortunately, since flights out of Vancouver were absurdly priced, I had to leave my ass seated at home this season — covering the brands I love from my laptop instead. It’s not the worst thing, considering smaller creators like myself are often left on read when reaching out for an invite, or access to a showroom. Thankfully, there are saints like Spaces Agency and Maison Liaison, who’ve supported Duchump — and other smaller creators — by granting us access to brands they’re currently representing (and some of my favourites) like William Frederick, Archie, Is-Ness, etc.
And even if I were invited to a runway show, it’s hard to see the finer details from the back row anyway. If you’re not a top dawg in the industry, then you’re most likely sitting at the very back, or in a common area for the lesser known individuals. In my opinion — and I know I’m not alone in this — it’s better to visit the showroom than attend the presentation. The latter might offer a more immersive view into the brand’s creative vision — but still, I’m here for the clothes, not the vibes.
Anyway, enough chit chat — let’s get to these SS26 collections.
Auralee SS26
Oh, Auralee — I love you so.
Every season, whenever I need inspiration for an outfit, styling a look, or incorporating new colours into my wardrobe, Ryota Iwai’s collections remain as my go-to. Their presentations have become a kind of special event for me, and once again, I’m more-than-satisfied with their latest showing.
When creating a collection, Ryota Iwai focuses on using fabrics that are breathable, wearable, and durable. Building an ever-expanding Auralee-verse, designing newer, stronger iterations of past pieces, which, if you can’t already tell, I deeply appreciate. The label has grown into a favourite on the calendar, and its global presence continues to expand. I’ve actually yet to own a piece by Auralee, but I’ve got my eyes locked on a few pieces right now.
Now, after looking through their SS26 collection, it’s hard to formulate a thorough review without seeing anything in-person. Let’s make that clear: these are just thoughts and opinions based on photographs. The first half of the collection had me locked in, as it was another masterclass in styling. For example, Look 15 consisted of a striped light-blue button-up, a striped cream/taupe sweater tied diagonally along the chest with loose sleeves at the end, adding further texture and detail to the look. Additionally, we see a brown leather sunglasses case, and what appears to be a midnight navy/black trouser with white drawstrings. Cohesive, casual, sophisticated, and very wearable. Oh, and of course, black flip-flops. That’s one thing to note — Ryota Iwai made me appreciate flip-flops and sandals after years of resisting them.
Aside from styling, the use of colour remains top-notch for Auralee. It’s impressive as it can go from being soft and sensitive on the eyes, to a stark contrast that keeps your attention engaged. Look 30 is one example, bringing another elevated option of casualwear by pairing a buttery yellow fleece hoodie cinched at the hem with an adjustable drawstring, a gingham button-up layered underneath, and what appears as paint-splattered trousers — giving it a workwear, utilitarian element to the look. Then, to top things off, the contrast I was referring to: black sandals, when you might have expected a brown loafer or sandal instead. It gives the overall soft, yet complex, look a little bit of edge.
Again, there’s a playfulness that Ryota brings to his work. It’s very special to see, especially during this bleak timeline we’re currently living in. To me, it’s somewhat of a gentle, optimistic reminder of what life can look like. SS26 started off with mostly darker, heavier looks, but as it progressed, the collection became lighter, brighter, happier.
Here’s to hoping that’s reflective of what’s to come in the world.
ssstein SS26
Kbadgkagnjaagdga — whoops, sorry. I was foaming from the mouth after seeing Stein’s (or ssstein) latest collection, as it was exceptional and left me feeling dizzy. Similar to how I felt after all three, possibly four, concussions I’ve had. Anyway, when I tell you that this show was, for lack of a better word, bonkers — I’m saying that this show was absolutely bonkers.
Kiichiro Asakawa has quickly climbed the ladder at Paris Fashion Week to become one of the standouts. This was an important moment for the label, as this is the last show that is financially backed by the Fashion Prize of Tokyo, and Stein had won this last year. Asakawa shared that, although this is the last event funded by the prize, he would like to continue showing in Paris. If it were me, I’d continue showing in Paris as the brand has grown significantly — now being stocked in 20 countries, and receiving international acclaim.
As for the show, well, it was a sensational collection, bringing a beautiful blend of elegance, sophistication, and versatility, creating the dream wardrobe for any occasion, situation, environment, etc. We saw elements of workwear with the intentionally dirtied jacket and trouser combo, but adding a tasteful touch by including a supple leather collar. Then, completely shifting gears, we saw a classic blazer buttoned to the tippy top, paired with a navy track jacket, a white button-up scrunched to perfection just peeking out at the waist, and finally, a pair of jorts. Yes, we saw jorts on the runway, and it was executed brilliantly.
“I’m proceeding with the aim of releasing and delivering each season something that is minimalist, yet natural, yet somehow elegant,” Asakawa shared with Vogue after the show, and it’s reflective in his work this season. From how the trousers drape and sway with every step, to the colourful knits and sweaters used either as an accessory or layered to perfection — there is so much life here.
Stein is now at the top of my must-see list with a few others. The level of excellence Asakawa brings is something to behold — creating a body of work that, while deceptively simple upon first viewing, does elevate menswear further. This is one of the reasons I choose to cover smaller brands, as I’m here to see clothing that is wearable, and not a spectacle. We don’t need another garment that’s 100% polyester, with jagged edges sticking out everywhere — I want to see well-made clothes, made with good fabrics, and made with good intentions.
People are saying luxury is dying, but this is a prime example of what luxury should be. In reality, we’re seeing what the industry pushes as luxury for what it really is these days — all fluff, no substance. It isn’t dying, it’s evolving.
Personally, Auralee and Stein both fit perfectly into this category, and by the looks of it, things seem to be going pretty damn well.
Extra Bits & Thoughts
While I couldn’t be there to see it in person, Gathering sent over a little sneak peek of their collection — and it’s safe to say: it’s stunning. Haider, the mastermind behind the brand, remains both undefeated and underrated, designing pieces that offer so much while still feeling effortless and functional.
One piece in particular stood out: an incredible overcoat dyed in a way that resembles a Rorschach test. It’s this deep, blueberry-blue tone with a subtle intensity, paired with a cream top — possibly a waffle knit, or maybe a heavyweight organic cotton — and trousers that match the coat. It left me floored, and honestly, I suspect you’ll have the same reaction once it drops for the world to see.
I wish I could show you. But for now, you’ll just have to wait and see, my friends.
Update (re: the overcoat):
Colbo will always have a place in my heart. I remember wandering those Parisian streets, listening to my slippers crack against the cobblestones, worried I’d be late to my next appointment. Then suddenly, through a window — a familiar face. It was Tal and Eldar, two of the kindest people I met during my stint in New York.
It was a sight for sore eyes. They were showing their AW25 collection, and although it was a brief interaction, it was a meaningful one. Now they’re back for SS26, and from what I’ve seen online, it looks like another heeeater. Loose, drapey silhouettes, grounded color choices, and outerwear that will leave you drooling.
The last slide features one of my favourite pieces: an oversized sheer zip-up with dropped shoulders that looks like it would fit like a dream. Also, lowkey kinda hot.
Rier showed their spring collection, and to be completely honest, there’s a lot left to be desired. While cohesive and exuding a modern take on sexy minimalism, I’m left wondering how much further the label can really go. Their spin on minimalism is appreciated — there are several looks I’d absolutely wear, and you can tell the textiles they’re working with are top quality.
But there’s a looming question around the brand: Who exactly is wearing Rier?
It’s something that’s come up in conversation with other Duchumpers*. The label’s increased their stockists quite a bit since I last checked, but the price points can be hard to stomach. Some pieces make sense — like the Felted Wool Jackets and Fleece Sweaters — but it’s tough to justify $800CAD+ for a cotton button-up.
Don’t get me wrong, Rier’s still one of my favourites. I’m just curious why we don’t see more people wearing it in the wild. Maybe they’re a slow burn.
We’ll just have to wait and see.
*yes, I’m coining this term describing subscribers of the Substack.
Blackbird Spyplane, Lady White Co and Neighbour held a joint event yesterday that left me with an insane level of FOMO. If this is going to be a regular thing during PMW, you can bet your ass I’ll be there every year moving forward. To make things worse, Magasin also threw an event the day before — just adding salt to the wound.
Your boy is noided.
Anyway, Jonah and Louis have you covered with live and direct coverage of Men’s Fashion Week — showing you all the SS26 bangers and must-haves. I highly recommend checking out Louis’ latest piece recapping the first two days of PMW.
Until next time. ✌🏽
Thanks for reading!
I appreciate your support as I work to grow this newsletter into something bigger — a full publication with interviews, collection coverage, and maybe working with larger publications.
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- Chris
Sensational read, yet again