Jet Lagged
Touching on a few brands we had the pleasure of seeing during Men's Fashion Week in Paris. It's 5AM (PST) and I can't sleep, so let's start writing.
(Updated: Original version of this post came across like a fever dream. We’re fighting heavy jet-lag, but I’ve made a few revisions to make the post sound more, uh, normal.)
Opening Notes
It was an eventful week in Paris, where I had the pleasure of visiting several showrooms and meeting with brands I love. I’d like to extend a huge thank you to everyone who made this possible. It’s been a goal since starting this newsletter, and honestly, since first getting into this space.
I’ve already made some great friendships, and I’m looking forward to potentially returning in the summer. I do wish I had more time to visit showrooms, especially those that reached out with an invitation. As a first-time attendee for business, I definitely underestimated the amount of time needed to effectively tackle Fashion Week.
For the next one, I’d love to collaborate with others and visit showrooms together, working together, and really get the full experience.
Outfit
The Jil Sander jacket I bought prior to the trip has been getting plenty of use. Not for its practicality, as it is not practical whatsoever, but more for the way it billows out along the side, creating more shape in every, or at least most, outfits of mine. I’ve added two outfits below featuring the jacket, just so you can see why I’ve been wearing it so often.
Unfortunately, we do have a bit of sad news. The Floppy Ballcap by Paa, seen in the image on the right, was lost during the trip. One of the reasons why I’d choose this cap over all the others is because of its ongoing shape-shifting throughout the day, as it could look one way when you first leave, and another when you get back home — giving it an added layer of life to it.
On top of already sad news, Paa did shut down operations, so I don’t think I’ll be able to get my hands on another one of their caps again. Quick RIP to the floppy ballcap.
Men’s Fashion Week (Pt. 1)
Despite it being brutally cold at times (thank god I bought base layers from Uniqlo), I had the pleasure of visiting a few showrooms that featured some of my favourite brands at the moment. Maison Liason, run by the & son team, had a great roster featuring the likes of Archie, William Frederick, and s.k. manor hill, which are all brands that have been mentioned in Duchump.
To kick things off, let’s start with Archie.
Mark Smith Clarke, one of the most eloquent people I’ve met, walked us through Archie’s upcoming FW25 collection, titled “Unmeasured Distance” — the title being inspired by a line from James Joyce. The New York-based elaborated how Joyce “sort of talked about how his process and life’s work is about something he loves, but is no longer present to.”
This was a recollection of ideas from Archie’s history, revisiting key moments he’s evolved, paused, and at times, remained stagnant. Mark decided, after ten collections, to build on these past iterations, refining and improving them to create something fresh.
He recently started working with a new exporter in Japan that has not yet exported to North America. This is a “first-time go” at working with a loftier wool from the Bishu area of Japan — the country’s largest producer of wool, and through it’s use of clean hydro energy to power their textile mills, it’s helped produce some of the finest natural fabrics. He elaborated on the design inspiration by adding, “I’m just trying to find an amalgam of North American goods and play on some Japanese sensibilities of idiosyncrasies, fabric, texture, and how those play together.”
Archie remains as a hidden gem, releasing collections that are carefully and thoughtfully designed, and meant for everyday wear. It’s a standout for me. You can absolutely see the growth in design from past collections to now, along with some risk-taking with the choice in fabrics. “This provides a satisfying step forward in where I’m going. This feels like, for the first time, all of my ideas feel fused together in a way that the next collection will be very informed by this one.”
To think he was worried about being unable to explain his collection eloquently.
Carter Young
After three failed attempts to enter the building, I managed to find the correct door leading to the DSMR showroom. Did I make a fool of myself in front of the Parisians walking by? Oh, absolutely. Did I embarrass myself in front of the Carter Young team? Probably, but they wouldn’t tell me since they’re too damn nice.
Founded in 2020, Carter Young has quickly grown, earning praise and co-signs from major publications like GQ, and seeing pieces from past collections worn by some of your favourite celebrities. What differentiates the brand from the rest, aside from their exceptional work, is their ability to take inspiration from cultural icons in American history, television, film, etc. For example, their latest collection, 17-21, is loosely inspired by both Carter Young Altman’s teenage years and Mike Leigh’s 1993 film Naked. I’ve yet to see the film, but after reading a brief synopsis, I’m definitely intrigued.
In their collection notes, Carter Altman describes finding a “kinship in the bleakness of both settings, which universalized the feelings of angst and longing that come with adolescence on the cusp.” This is reflected in their choice of fabrics and design. For example, the “Patti Tee”, which looks like a relic from the 70s/80s No Wave scene in New York. It’s perfectly airy and lightweight, it may just disintegrate in your hands if you hold it for too long.
There’s a sexiness to this collection (I mentioned this in my latest reel). The Elias Unstructured Blazer, Leather Arch Jacket, and Suede Western Shirt are perfect options for evening attire. I mean, if I had either one of those garments, I’d be feeling like Peter Parker in Spider-Man 3 when he goes full emo and confident, but I wouldn’t get any bitches. Actually, now that I think of it, he didn’t get any either. I’d just feel sexy for myself, and that’s what really matters, right? Wait, no — back to the collection.
If I had to pick, though a tough choice, the Hewitt Wool Coat is my favourite piece from the collection. It offers a great balance of structure and life — its construction provides a brilliant and sharp silhouette, while the wool adds texture that further makes it feel alive. This collection is built to last you a lifetime, which aligns with Carter’s overall vision, as each piece seamlessly integrates with the next. There’s also a personal touch added to his work: each garment, if I’m not mistaken, is named after someone he knows. It’s a wholesome and meaningful detail that shows how personal Carter’s approach is to his collection, alongside the influences he’s drawn mentioned earlier.
As they say in various stock market forums that, for whatever reason, I follow regularly despite having no investments — this brand is a rocketship, and they are only going to continue growing and evolving into something bigger. Beautiful work, fantastic team.
FW25 Review
Dries Van Noten (written by Edward Luetkehoelter)
Dries Van Noten the man may be tucked into the shadows of retirement, but Dries Van Noten the label presents another show. This is the second since his retirement from his eponymous brand, and the first with his successor, Julien Klausner, officially at the helm (the interim Spring 2025 womenswear show was headed by the design team as a whole). As any sane person would be in this tumultuous fashionscape, with Burberry moving onto their third creative director in three years, and Galliano’s sudden departure from Margiela after a standout show last January (and the oft-debated quality of Sean McGirr’s first two McQueen shows, Pharrell at LV, that whole Chanel affair), I was scared by the prospect of a new creative director. Luckily, as any sane person in fashion’s current climate would say, this 38 slide presentation was a resounding success.
(Note “presentation” – this is not a runway, but a lookbook of sorts, photographed by photographic luminary Willy Vanderperre. In fact, this isn’t even wholly Klausner’s work – the press release states “[the collection was] designed by the Dries Van Noten Studio and directed by [Klausner]”*. No matter. Resounding success.)
Obvious examples of this success: Look 1 – a dreamy jet-black black cinched at the waist by a delicate white thread, an equally white undershirt that seemingly transitions somewhere into barrel cuffs, buttery black gloves. Puffy white floral brooch. Look 12 – an oversized, charcoal gray, double breasted (two rows of buttons) supremely tailored blazer, complete with raised shoulders that would make Martin Margiela grin, a black undershirt with a low, square neckline hastily tucked into knee-length, black suit shorts. The thread returns as a belt.
To avoid describing each look I like – there would be 36 more equally long winded descriptions, mostly on superb silhouettes and standout construction – I’ll tell you about the inspirations. According, again, to the press release, the main inspiration for the presentation was William Burroughs’ ‘The Wild Boys’*, a 1971 novel set in a 20th century post apocalypse with a band of homosexual rebels attempting to instigate the downfall of Western Civilization. While the connection I’m about to make is tenuous, I can’t help but feel some allegory between the set-up of Burroughs’ novel and the mythos created around the Antwerp Six**, a group of Belgian outsiders infiltrating London Fashion Week in 1986 and instantly deposing any competition for the best country of menswear designers. Not only are the looks fitting for a band of raggedy-suave anarchists, they also feel heavily influenced by Demuelemeester’s work with the flowy, feathered, and gothically dramatic (looks 25, 35, and 37), and, as mentioned prior, the shoulders in look 12’s blazer (as well as look 10’s sweater, look 18’s trench, look 30’s overcoat, etc) feel extremely Margiela influenced. Notably, Martin was a close friend of the Six, attending the Royal Academy of Fine Arts alongside them, and once romantically involved with a member of the very group.
Of course, Van Noten’s work is also referenced, most notably with the bold prints and patterns he so loves adorning garments. My personal favourite moment of the entire project – in look 7, a model spikes the camera, dressed impeccably in wide trousers, delicate jumper, cropped blazer (all black) and a white cable-knit bonnet. He holds one side of the blazer open like a door, and we see a bright purple floral lining. He reveals that Dries is still there, tucked into the shadows of the jacket, the man behind the brand built into the new look and closest to the wearer. thanks to another gorgeous pair of leather gloves, this reveal is, literally, red-handed. Oops. Vanderperre’s lens and Klausner’s direction goad the model on. You caught me.
*denotes citation to the January 20th Review by Luke Leitch
** – the members of the Antwerp Six were / are Dries van Noten, Ann Demuelemeester, Marina Yee, Walter van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, & Dirk van Saene
Closing Notes
Even though I’m in the process of moving, I will be releasing my interview with Gathering later this week. Afterwards, I’ll continue tackling each brand I got to see in Paris, with reviews for new shows scattered here and there. I do have a few interviews up my sleeves that will leave you surprised and floored, so please stay tuned for that.
Until then, as always, thank you for your support. The weekly picks segment will return after I move and get sorted into my new place, and I will be planning my next trip out to Paris soon, as it’s been incredibly validating hearing such positive feedback from people I respect in the industry. Someone told me that their server, or bartender, at a popular bar in Paris noticed that I had featured them on Instagram, knows who I am, and is subscribed to this Substack.
Hearing about moments like that make this all worthwhile, especially as a smaller creator that’s almost called it quits on a few occasions. Maybe we’ve got something special here.
Let’s keep this thing going.
Thanks for reading!
Your support is greatly appreciated as I continue working towards growing this newsletter and slowly turning it into something bigger. The end goal is to turn this into a publication, featuring interviews with individuals within the fashion realm, covering collections and shows, etc. Maybe we can make it to fashion week - who knows.
If you can, please like, subscribe, and share this publication if you found it helpful, fun, or if it just helped pass the time, tbh.
Thank you for your support. Love ya.
- Chris