Is It Spring?
Woke up sweaty, but ready to talk about Pillings, Gabriela Coll. We also have the latest selection of picks, and a quick write-up on Kiko Kostadinov. Short and sweet.
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Introduction
We’re finally seeing a glimpse of sun this week, and it’s healing every part of my body and soul. But strangely, it hasn’t helped my outfits — lately, I’ve been struggling to put any kind of look together. Is there a Mercury in Retrograde-esque reason why getting dressed suddenly feels like an impossible task?
These are two recent outfits we pulled off that are, well, decent for the most part. The left gives post-ayahuasca trip, while the right is pre-ayahuasca trip — still working that 9 to 5, and coming home to watch White Lotus, or whatever show currently trending on HBO Max.
While I keep experimenting with my wardrobe, I’ve put together a new playlist that you can listen to on Spotify and Apple Music. Now that the weather’s turning, I figured I’d make a little mix with a little more oomph to it. Also, I recommend watching The Insider by Michael Mann on Criterion, or stream it illegally — we’re all going down anyway.
Sidenote:
During a quick shopping excursion, I visited a new shop here in Vancouver that’s caught quite a bit of attention. Sycamore, located on Pender and Abbott, has opened its doors and has an exceptional selection of brands like YLÈVE, Kanemasa, Comes and Goes, and Ciota available. Their inventory is moving quickly, so I recommend stopping by sooner rather than later.
Thoughts
Pillings Autumn/Winter 25
In a previous post, I had mentioned how New York Fashion Week’s popularity has been steadily declining over the past few years thanks to several factors — inflation, political climate, lack of creativity and innovation, and unaffordable housing to name a few. With this, we’re seeing a growing appreciation for Berlin and Tokyo FW instead; seeing a more refreshing take on menswear and womenswear.
Even with its delay, Tokyo Fashion Week delivered standout collections that have impressed me more than anything I’ve seen at NYFW in the last few years. For example, Pillings presented their Autumn/Winter 25 collection, and although it only consisted of 33 looks, it was definitely a masterclass in quality over quantity (ahem, Calvin Klein). It felt like a fusion of Margiela’s A/W94 collection A Doll’s Wardrobe and earlier work by Yohji Yamamoto, but with Murakami’s own mutated, surrealist twist.
Ryota Murakami, the mind behind Pillings, is up for the LVMH prize this year, and you can certainly see why. This collection felt tender — brooding, yet sensitive — with its textured cardigans, sweaters, and coats, all set to a ghostly piano track echoing through the hall. Throughout the show, I couldn’t help but feel as if I were stepping into a haunting memory of someone — seeing past iterations of themselves at their most vulnerable. A very touching collection, beautifully done.
Favourite Looks: 1, 6, 7, 13, 16, 21, and 32.
Gabriela Coll
Do you ever get that full-body feeling like you’re ready to physically implode, or maybe want to bite something really hard?
Anyway, Gabriela Coll entered my fashion, uh, sphere (let’s just roll with it) after I saw a few of their garments at Neighbour — aka my third place. From what I’ve gathered, the brand has consistently released an ongoing, season-less series of pieces that can be layered and integrated easily with each other “in pursuit of a permanent wardrobe,” as mentioned on their website.
With her fine arts background, Coll is attentive to the craftsmanship and finer details behind each piece — working with local manufacturers in Spain, choosing natural fabrics and finer materials for their work that bring comfort and durability to the forefront. In addition to this, Gabriela brings an edginess with certain pieces incorporating raw hems, cuffs, and collars. There’s a reason why this was one of the more anticipated drops at the shop. I had the pleasure of trying on their Canvas Flap Pocket Trouser, and if I had the funds, it would be in sitting in my closet as we speak.
One of their standouts is their Rainsystem Oversized Coat, made from 100% superfine merino wool by Loro Piana. The Grey option is great, but the Black one (now sold out) left my knees buckling, debating whether I should start an OnlyFans to fuel my fashion obsession. There are a few more pieces made from Loro Piana’s fabrics like their Wool Sleeveless Shirt and Summer Zipper Jacket — both pieces that would make fine additions to your wardrobe.
All in all, Gabriela Coll’s creative vision, with their collection or even the photographs they’ve taken, is inspiring. Too often, brands preach similar philosophies but deliver nothing — just the same shirt, with little-to-no changes from its previous iteration. With Coll, like any artist, their work is constantly evolving while staying true to the artist’s direction. In this case, a series of clothing that could very well become your permanent wardrobe — bringing you modernized classics with enough diversity in design to last you a lifetime.
Favourites: No. 306 Canvas Jacket, No. 197 Linen Shirt, No. 87 Long Sleeve Shirt, No. 259 Linen Shorts, No. 63 Popin Jacket, No. 287 Canvas Trousers, No. 261 Silk Zipper Jacket, No. 259 Taffeta Short Trousers, No. 7 Open-Toe Babouche, No. 17 Hoof Bag.
Honestly, I love everything they have right now.
I Think This Guy Like Kiko Kostadinov
Words by Edward Luetkehoelter
Great name to repeat. Say that one ten times fast — Kiko, Kiko, Kiko, Kiko, Kiko, Kiko, Kiko, Kiko, Kiko, Kiko was great. I would say I’m a Kiko-convert. Something about uniforms, the new face of menswear, etc. This isn’t about menswear, though, this is about womenswear. The new face of womenswear? Possibly.
I find it hard to offer meaningful thoughts on anything Kiko. The references the team – Kiko alongside Laura & Deanna Fanning – use are so specific, so firmly entrenched in the fabric (ha) of every collection, that commenting on them feels pointless beyond the pure fact that:
They are references.
They are well integrated.
A note on references — Vail Myers, a Parisian/Australian dancer from the 50s, and Ed Van Der Elskens’ 1956 photobook Love on the Left Bank, and the construction/silhouette of old-school womens underwear, brassieres, crinolines, etc (reference notes sourced here). I do have one thought, though – there were some atypically Kiko distressing here, found in whiskered and splotched painter paints and jackets, made of a washed grey denim.
Favourite Looks: 11, 21, 22, 32, and 33.
Weekly Picks
What y’all have been waiting for, another selection of bangers and mash — pieces to help get you ready for spring, summer, weddings, prison, apocalypse, etc. This section is typically for paid subscribers only, but we’re feeling generous today, so I’ve decided to share it with everyone this week.
As of next week, we’ll resume to having weekly picks only available to paid subscribers first.
Enjoy.
Lemaire
Cotton Gabardine Jacket
$602CAD
Lemaire
Cotton Overshirt
$550CAD
The Row
Bemidi Wool Shorts
$888CAD
Encoming
Pullover Pocket Shirt
$407CAD
A.A.R. by Yohji Yamamoto
Brown Corduroy Zip-Up Shirt
$362CAD
Minotaur Inst.
W Jacket Gray
$571CAD
Is-Ness
Nu Ventilation Long Sleeve Shirt
$515CAD
Y’s For Men
Longsleeve Football Jersey
$115CAD
Graphpaper
Wool Wide Pants
$445CAD
Sugarhill
Western Double-Knee Pants
$479CAD
Jieda
Loose Parachute Trousers
$570CAD
MAN-TLE
R18 Jebok-2 Jacket
$905CAD
Yoko Sakamoto
Tabi Socks
$30CAD
Graphpaper
Selvage Belted Denim Pants
$385CAD
Y’s
AW09 Spotted Horse Denim Jacket
$460CAD
Seya
Denim Zero Overshirt
$834CAD
Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme
Linen Jacket (kinda crazy)
$522CAD
Dries Van Noten
Hemal T-Shirt
$535CAD
Sage Nation
Black Seersucker Check Shorts
$570CAD
Thanks for reading!
Your support is greatly appreciated as I continue working towards growing this newsletter and slowly turning it into something bigger. The end goal is to turn this into a publication, featuring interviews with individuals in fashion, covering collections and shows, etc. Maybe we can make it to fashion week again - who knows.
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Love ya.
- Chris