I'm Back
Brain fog has lifted. Another batch of picks, what I've been loving recently, and a few rapid-fire thoughts to share with you.
Introduction
I’ve been struggling with a cold for the past week, but honestly, I feel like it was my body telling me to slow it down and take a breather. Anyway, I did something.
After weeks of deliberating, along with trying it on two separate occasions, I finally picked up the Grey Felted Wool Walker Jacket by Rier. It’s wonderfully sleek, with its stand collar, concealed button closure, and the fabric keeps me surprisingly warm, yet it’s surprisingly lightweight. It’s 100% wool, and as per their product description, felted like a Loden.
If you’re wondering what a Loden is, it’s a brushed wool fabric with origins stemming from Austria and Germany. Historically, it was primarily used for the outdoors because of its warmth, and resistance to extreme weathers. It’s dirt and odour resistant, so I can roll around in the mud all goddamn day, then hit the town without having to worry about my outfit. Wonderful
I’ve shared how Rier deeply cares about the materials used for their garments, and being transparent about the sustainability of their supply chain and process. As Neighbour puts it, “Rier produces garments of a functional elegance,” which is entirely true. For the majority of folks, Rier may have just entered their brand vernacular, but with its considerable growth, and co-signs by some of fashion’s biggest menswear enthusiasts, we will be hearing a lot more about the brand.
(Visit Rier’s website to see their latest collection. God I love them.)
What I’ve Been Loving
Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen AW25
Back in grade 9, when Grizzly Bear and Animal Collective dominated my iTunes, I had to recite a few lines from Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream in front of the class. With everyone’s eyes on me, I couldn’t help but wonder — why must I be doing this while wearing my Phat Farm shoes, straight-leg jeans from Bluenotes, and graphic tee from Urban Planet.
Looking through Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen’s AW25 collection reminded me of this feeling. This is what I would’ve preferred to wear while spitting bars like “Methought I was enamoured of an ass.” Yes, that is a real line, and it’s how I feel most days if you catch my drift.
‘Renaissance-Futurism’, if that makes any sense, is how I would describe Zoe’s AW25 collection — mixing the abstract with delicateness, either through her fabric choices or the accessories added to certain looks. For example, look 1 features these beautifully ruched trousers with an intricate lace detail along the cuffs, but the look is elevated with silver and bronze plating strapped around her waist. The historical influence is there, as you can see throughout the collection, but what’s stunning is the level of detail Zoe’s thought of in each look.
Another example is look 8 — the fabric appears as if it’s decaying, creating a haunting image. You’d think this gown was plucked from another era, with its disheveled details and fragile appearance, only to be repurposed for this collection. It feels like Zoe’s exploring the fragility we had, and the beauty within that, while bringing a surrealist touch with the metal peeking through the sides.
There’s a romanticism tied to this collection, but from a modern perspective. There’s one look in particular that leaves me uneasy, and it’s look 21. The silver plate that’s consuming the model really feels relevant, almost a kind of protection, or anonymity, while the rest of the look retains the delicateness we’ve seen. It’s raw and vulnerable, but also potentially speaking on where we are today — seeing the loss of vulnerability and beauty, and replacing it with a cold, hard exterior.
This may be my favourite from NYFW, as there’s a lot of emotion behind it, and it’s quite thought-provoking. There’s a Galliano-ness to it, but made by someone who’s seen the rapid rise of the digital age, and the consequences from it; creating a commentary of where we once were, and where we are headed. At least, this is my interpretation of the collection. Could be the NyQuil.
Comoli x Umbro
For my new subscribers who aren’t aware, Comoli was the only brand I could talk about for a few weeks last year — I went on a spree, buying anything and everything available from them at Neighbour. There’s a reason why Komori Keijiro, founder and designer behind the brand, has such a devoted fanbase, and it’s because of how ridiculously comfortable and special their garments are.
By using simple, high-quality fabrics, the brand creates collections designed for everyday wear. Speaking from experience, I can vouch for how great their clothes are—my Cashmere Crewneck and Moleskin Jacket have been two of my most-worn pieces over the past six months. The latter is my favorite and will remain in my closet until the end of time (which might be soon tbh).
Anyway, after a hefty excursion through the never-ending pages of Yahoo Auctions Japan, I stumbled upon a sweater by the brand that left me scratching my head. Wait — Umbro collaborated with Comoli? Why, yes they did.
In 2022, Umbro released a collaboration with the acclaimed Japanese brand, consisting of only a few pieces. One of them is a black fleece sweater that I absolutely want and need, even though it’s just a simple sweater. If you’re into it, you’re in luck because I’ve found a few pieces through auctions and have listed them in this week’s selection of picks.
Portal SS25
Minutes after landing in Paris, I bumped into one of my Vancouver pals — the talented Colin Meredith. Colin, whose star has been rising ever since I first met him, was there to present both his namesake label and a mysterious new project that’s been teased online — Portal.
I’ll be honest, when I first heard of Portal, I immediately thought of the game. So, I was intrigued with what it could be, despite there being absolutely zero connection to the game. That’s just how my brain works, okay. Moving on.
Portal’s team consists of Colin Meredith, Patrick Stangbye, Barrie Bloor, and John Roberts. “We’re trying to make the kind of essential wardrobe for someone who’s in this kind of endurance sport space of run, hike, bike,” explained Colin for Sabukaru, who interviewed the designer during Men’s Fashion Week in January. After checking out their drop online, my first thought was how tasteful and subtle the colour palette is — earth tones that are easy on the eyes.
Even if you’re new to activewear, Portal still has you covered with pieces designed for everyday life. For example, their Radius Cap, Lateral Peak Long-Sleeves, and Level Alpha Jacket — all very accessible, functional and can easily be worn everyday.
The Radius Cap is made from breathable nylon, offers light weather resistance, and has a mounted cord that cinches perfectly around your dome. For my fellow Vancouverites, the Level Alpha Jacket — with its wind-resistant shell and comfortable POLARTEC lining — lets you take on the city’s unpredictable climate without a second thought. What I love most are the little thoughtful details, like the underarm ventilation panels, swoop-like hand pockets, and adjustable halo hood.
After weeks of anticipation, I can now say that this was worth the wait. I’m excited to see what else the Portal collective has in store for us.
Rapid-Fire Thoughts
Rier’s second collaboration with Salomon has dropped, the XA MID GTX — a tactical mid-boot that will leave you looking either like a missing fighter pilot, or your older uncle that was alive during Operation Desert Storm. Thankfully, I’ve managed to pick up a pair for myself through my PS at SSENSE, though I regret not snagging the first iteration as it’s stunning in person, and its resale value has reached $1K.
Note: If you’re reading this, it’s too late. They’re already sold out by the looks of it (checked Très Bien, The Broken Arm, etc).
VP TEXI, a name you will be hearing more of real soon, recently dropped their Knitted Neck Gaiter/Sleeve on their website. The duo behind the not-yet-classifiable project have become a source for inspiration for myself recently with their creatively shot editorials, almost-reclusive nature, and the accessories they’ve been releasing that feel less fashion focused and more artistic in nature. Similar to Unkruid, their creative direction feels very thoughtful and unique — a lovely palette cleanser for those overstimulated by the amount of fashion content we’ve seen over the past two months. VP’s cooking up plenty, with the more anticipated release (at least for me) being their trousers. When that will happen, who knows. Until then, I need to get my hands on their B. Hound Ear Hat.
Note: Lukas from Present Forever recently released an interview with the VP TEXI duo. I highly recommend reading it when you’ve got the time.
Saager worked wonders with Neighbour’s new arrivals. While visiting showrooms during PFW — most, if not all, designers wanted the mastermind behind the Vancouver-based shop to see their collection. For myself, I’ve been a frequent shopper for the last 10-ish years, and it’s been incredible seeing the evolution of the store, and now seeing how many shops are trying to replicate Saager’s formula. Anyway, they’re cooking right now with several of their latest arrivals sitting in my cart like the Lot 102 Shirt by Taiga Takahashi, Pleated Workwear Pants by Lemaire, and Brown Track Jacket by Yoko Sakamoto. Don’t worry, I’ve listed more in this week’s picks.
Note: ILTT2, uh-huh. I’ve been on a Taiga Takahashi kick recently and snagged a Lot 303 Jacket and Lot 506 Sweater. Next weekly breakdown will cover these two pickups.
Closing Notes
It’s been difficult putting a sentence together these days when the rest of the world is crashing down. With the US in the spotlight for all the wrong reasons, I’ve had trouble drafting any posts when the subject matter I’m covering feels minuscule right now. All of this is small potatoes, and like McQueen said, “they’re just clothes at the end of the day. No matter what they look like, everything’s been done before.”
If you find comfort in these posts, then that’s all that matters to me. Love you, appreciate you, here for you.
Weekly Picks
I was hesitant to share all of my picks, since there are a few pieces I’ve been eyeing and would love to pick up. Unless I find $80,000 on the ground this week, I’ve decided to share them all with you.
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