How Do You Do, Fellow Kids?
Breaking down the good, the bad, and the decent from the past few weeks — plus another round of weekly picks, and the creativity gap at NYFW.
Outfit
I’m feeling reaaaaaal bored of my wardrobe right now, so it’s been hard pulling off any new fits. It’s weird — I always subconsciously reset back to my classic wardrobe once I’m back in Vancouver, defaulting to my uniform consisting of my Moleskin Jacket by Comoli and Box Pleat Trousers by Sage Nation.
Here’s my most recent fit:
I’ve got on the Short Trench by Lemaire — an absolutely stunning jacket — paired with my Straight-Leg Pleated Trousers by Loewe, Elmira Cashmere Sweater by The Row, and Flat Piped Slippers by Lemaire. Also, for those wondering, the keychain is by Sisi Joía, and the OPANTSUKUN Keychain from SORT. You can see more of the jacket through this reel that I posted. Run up them numbers, so we can move on to bigger things for this newsletter.
One of my goals this year is to build a solid rotation of pants. If you want another edition of “ID on Pants,” let me know, and I’ll share my findings.
The Good, The Bad and The Decent
Good: Auralee FW25
If you’ve been following Duchump, you’ll know that the demand for good-quality clothing continues to rise in menswear. With this, Auralee is poised for another strong year after dropping another banger with their FW25 collection — offering versatility and comfort, highlighting the brand’s commitment to premium fabrics. It was also a masterclass in styling, blending sophistication and whimsy with an added layer of city-boy energy.
Look 5, shown below, could’ve been used in Paris, Texas by Wim Wenders, while the youthful touches — the blue mittens draped over in look 6, or the sleek modern take on a trapper hat in look 2 — added a nostalgic levity. Ryota Iwai, the man behind Auralee, continues to craft garments clearly inspired by his surroundings and the people in his life — creating, as Vogue put it, “heirlooms from one’s past.”
Though appreciative of the attention, Iwai remains committed to preserving Auralee’s personal touch, dedicating the necessary time to create garments that stay true to both the brand’s ethos and his own. The world he’s built wasn’t created overnight — it demands patience, determination, and an obsessive level of precision. Because of this, and its growing demand, we’re now entering an Auralee world — one defined by cashmere, fine wools suited for all climates, and a color palette that would fit perfectly in Spike Jonze’s Her.
Bad: Calvin Klein FW25
If I had to summarize this review with one image, it would be this.
Like many others, I was excited to see what Calvin Klein had in store after appointing Veronica Leoni, who’s worked with minimalist titans like The Row, Jil Sander, and Phoebe Philo. Now, I’m still a bit salty about what happened with Raf during the CalvinKlein205W39NYC days, but I was still eager to see what the Leoni had up her sleeve.
There are definitely some highlights — the gorgeous, high-neck wool overcoat in look 49 that I would love to have in my rotation, the silky ensemble bringing all kinds of drama in look 50, or the trypophobia coat in look 51. The rest of the collection, however, felt like knock-off iterations of past Lemaire, The Row, and Bottega Veneta. It gave “aging adult attempting to mingle with the cool kids,” trying to recapture their youth but with poor execution.
If you need inspiration for your Sims avatar, or whatever life-simulation game you’re playing, this collection is for you. Several looks were ill-fitting and frumpy — not in an intentional Miuccia Prada/Raf Simons way, but in a “bought the wrong size and missed the return window” kind of way.
That said, looks 40 through 51 were standouts. The collection wasn’t a total dud, but it felt like someone asked ChatGPT to elevate their normal-looking clothes using brands like Lemaire and The Row as inspiration. Regardless of how I feel, I’m not yet deterred from future collections, especially with how Leoni also drew inspiration from the chokehold Calvin Klein had on the world with its perfect blend of sexiness and minimalism.
Leoni is undeniably talented. Will she realize her full potential at Calvin Klein? My gut is saying yes, but what that will look like remains a mystery, at least for now. Either way, I’m here for the ride and excited to see what’s next.
Decent: Hed Mayner FW25
First, I’d like to preface that I was actually walking by the Hed Mayner show location before it started and had my photos snapped by the street style paps. It was a wonderful feeling — at the time. Looking back, I’ve realized that:
I’m never going to know exactly who took my photo since I didn’t go ask where they’re from, or who they’re shooting for.
Upon further review, I feel like my outfit’s proportions didn’t sit right. The coat I wore by Yoko Sakamoto was a smidge too big, and slightly too stiff, which led to a lopsided look.
Anyway, we’re here to chat about the collection.
As a big-fit enthusiast for years now, you can only imagine how I felt seeing the return of skinny jeans flooding my timeline through influencers, collections, etc. Even this past weekend, we saw Kendrick Lamar perform an electrifying set at the Super Bowl in a pair of Bootcut Jeans by Celine that were squeezing in them thighs.
Upon seeing this, I crossed my arms and immediately thought of Hed Mayner’s FW25 collection — my safe haven. He reimagined classics like the ‘Perfecto’ Jacket, originally released over 50 years ago by Irving Schott. I’ve always been hesitant to enter my leather-daddy phase, but after seeing Mayner’s iteration, I’m fully ready to dive in. Catch me looking like Al Pacino in Cruising (the ending to this film is still so funny to me after reading Pacino’s experience on set).
The collection gave us mature sexiness, one that looks more relevant than what I’m seeing on Love Island All-Stars right now. Looks 1, 5 and 16 exposed more chest than previous presentations, showing a more intimate side to Mayner’s work. I won’t be surprised if we see some of your favourite celebrities in either of these looks at premieres, or even casually around the city, events.
I’m reaching a point in my life where suiting is something I’m wanting to explore more of, and this collection contains everything I’d ever want in a suit. Looser, relaxed silhouettes, in contrast to the tailored suiting we’ve seen in the past, or what you see in any street style compilation* for Pitti Uomo.
Of course, you must expect some fun to be had with Hed Mayner. The use of fringe, a white fur-like accessory that resembles Santa’s beard, and chains were scattered throughout a few looks. The latter [chains] being sewn onto the garment, giving it a layer of edge to it, and as per Vogue, weighing one of their jackets down.
Though it wasn’t my favourite collection by the brand, it is criminal how little I hear of Hed Mayner in fashion. Hopefully, with whatever influence I have, I can do something about that.
*Never understood why they used the term street style, when these are literally all people pulling pieces from shops, or being styled by a third-party, and going to a show they’ve been invited to. Show me what actual people are wearing throughout the streets of x, y, and z city.
Bad: NYFW & The Lack of Menswear
“It’s depressing,” expressed Todd Snyder on the near-total erasure of menswear from NYFW’s calendar, with his label remaining as the only one solely showing menswear this season. I wasn’t particularly enthused by Snyder’s collection, despite some strong looks, however, his comment left me wondering — where did everyone go?
In 2022, Vaquera moved their operations to Paris. “Part of the reason why we want to move to France is because we feel so unstable in New York with the political climate and inflation,” co-founder Patric DiCaprio told 032c in their article ‘Who the fuck is Vaquera?’. “We’re unable to even exist in a way that feels comfortable, and on top of that, we’re expected to think about the way luxury shoppers live and work, yet we can’t even relate to them while shopping at Trader Joe’s,” a common sentiment I’ve heard from other designers, small or, well, medium (we’re not big enough to talk to the big boys yet).
032c’s article was published last year before the election, so imagine how designers are feeling now post-election. Now, in this Trump-led dystopia known as the United States, brands of all sizes are expressing their hardship, whether it’s the ongoing threats of tariffs, struggling economy, or the ongoing rise of the far-right; creating further hell for an already exhausted population weathering one of the most terrifying starts to a presidency.
Those who can escape will continue migrating to Paris, or other financially viable cities, leaving NYFW to legacy commercial brands like Michael Kors and Calvin Klein — leaving behind a gap in creativity and innovation, while these dinosaur labels struggle to remain relevant in today’s fashion landscape. Thank god for Eckhaus Latta, delivering another wonderful collection for FW25, but I wonder if they’ll continue presenting at NYFW in its current state.
“New York’s perceived lack of consistent, anchor brands, and a reputation for prioritising commercial success over creativity, has been blamed for dwindling press and buyer attendance,” from BoF’s latest post discussing NYFW, seen below.
“Being a New York brand, I think it’s important to be here,” shares Snyder for Vogue. But is staying true to your roots worth the financial gamble? I’ve already seen this in smaller markets like Vancouver — a mass exodus of creatives that cannot keep their craft active due to the high living costs. I can only imagine how American designers, and creatives, are feeling right now, especially in a mecca like New York.
I do believe NYFW will bounce back, but it will take time. Creators, regardless of your field and medium, are looking to take care of themselves right now. It’s a tricky time, yes, but keep in mind that sometimes the best work is produced during the hardest of times. So, I’m choosing to remain optimistic.
Weekly Picks
As always, if there’s anything in particular that you’re searching for, you can shoot me a message and I’ll do my best to find it for you. Also, last I checked, the Haven shoes below were available, but that may have changed by the time this article drops. The Evan Kinori + MAN-TLE piece is, without a doubt, my favourite one from the list, but take a peek and let me know what you think.
I’ve also highlighted some of my favourites from Neighbour’s seasonal sale.
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