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Discussing emerging brands like Gnuhr and Conkers, along with a weekly round-up of thoughts on Tom Ford, Undercover and Norlha. Enjoy.
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Introduction
I don’t care what any fufu-ass bozo says, spring has officially sprung and I couldn’t be happier after pulling my lifeless, but still well-dressed, corpse to the finish line — aka, the end of winter. The only thing I want in my life, aside from my loving partner, is to wear light layers and create a new playlist to listen to and, of course, share on my Instagram story. Did you really create a playlist if you’re not sharing it on your IG story?
Anyway, after a few days of wearing my Rier Salomon XA Mid GTX (naming my first child this) and conducting field research, I’ve come to the conclusion that they will slide into the B-to-C tier of my 2025 purchase list. They pair well with my Cargo Suit Shorts by Camiel Fortgens, but I’ve yet to try any trousers or jeans with them.
They’re definitely out of my comfort zone, which is why I wanted to document the process and show you how we’re integrating them [Salomons] into the rotation. I’ve been trying not to overthink my outfit and go with whatever comes first. Music has been the biggest component behind this thanks to playlists by The Row and Lemaire, distracting me from my thoughts. Whether it’s the music or something else, I’ve had more fun getting dressed recently.
To summarize my advice when getting ready:
Throw a good playlist on, and I can’t emphasize this enough. A good playlist.
Don’t think, just do it.
Playlist Suggestions: New Sounds For a New Spring by Lemaire and November 2024 by The Row.
Also, I’ve made a spontaneous purchase this past weekend — the Chalco Garment Dyed Denim by Studio Nicholson, on sale for $322CAD at Neighbour. I waltzed right in, saw them on the rack, tried them on — bada-bing! The only thing with Studio Nicholson pants is how short the inseam is, leaving my ankles exposed; ready to be bitten by rapid dogs, or broken by a pigeon crossing me up like Allen Iverson. This almost happened once, I’m not kidding.
Here’s Ten by Pearl Jam. 23:31, play it loud.
Yes, I know I’m 30. Why do you ask? What do you mean I give Unc energy?
What I’ve Been Loving
After bringing up Portal last week, I’ve realized that my interest in activewear continues to grow. Versatility and practicality have never really been in my fashion vocabulary, however, this year’s already trending differently as I’ve sold the majority of my one-off, special occasion items for more everyday garments. Gnuhr, a new brand I’ve been keeping tabs on, has recently become a favourite of mine after discovering them at, of course, Neighbour.
Nur Abbas, the man behind Gnuhr, is quickly becoming a favourite with their focus on functional, lightweight design; releasing clothing and accessories meant for the outdoors, or daily life. As mentioned on their website, “Nur’s expertise marks a significant evolution in how we think about personal gear and apparel, connecting ultralight functionality and everyday life.” With an impressive background as a Designer, or Designer Director for brands like Margiela, Louis Vuitton, and Goldwin, it’s only a matter of time until Gnuhr becomes a household name.
As for picks, I’ve been eyeing the Shag Long-Sleeve Sweater in Peyote, especially at that price-point ($160CAD). It’s a perfect blend of minimalism, functionality, and sexiness, with its sheer design while being the perfect layer “for active insulation” using POLARTEC fabric. Whether you’re going in the PNW and going on hikes, or if you’re in the city and wanting to throw on a fit to find some love — this is the piece for you.
They have a hoodie version of the Shag Sweater, in case you want your head safely, and comfortably, tucked away. You can see Nur’s technical ability in his products, and as Blackbird Spyplane put it, “the pieces are deceptively simple, conceived with an Industiral Designer’s ‘elegant solutions’ mentality.” Even the accessories — their Sling 2 v2.0 are both easily packable and can fit in the palm of your hand, which has a larger capacity than you’d expect. If you’re looking for a neck gaiter that will leave you looking like a sleep paralysis demon, then the Tryptagaiter is the one for you, and again, they’ve got the perfect product description for it.
Keep your eyes peeled for Gnuhr, and if you get the chance, please try on some of their pieces. You won’t be disappointed.
Conkers (SS25)
Timelessness and a care for natural fabrics — sound familiar? As I mentioned in previous posts, we’re seeing more and more brands, old and new, care more for the textiles and materials used in their garments. Conkers, based in the UK, draws inspiration from, as they say on their website, “a slower pace of life and speak to the essence of the British countryside.”
After previewing their SS25 collection, I’m officially a fan of Conkers. I had only seen their Farmers Shirt and “Pub?” Shirt before, but with a larger collection this time-around, I’m definitely impressed with what the British-brand has to offer. Their Military Track Jacket and Cerberus Jacket are my two standouts, with the latter already selling out on their website. Luckily, C’H’C’M just dropped their collection, so you better act fast and pick either of these up.
Truthfully, their prices are quite low considering the quality of the garment, and you can absolutely see what Conkers mean when they say they’re inspired by a slower pace of life. These are clothes you’d wear while strolling around town, walking your Afghan Hounds and having a coffee you made with your moccamaster before stopping at the beach to enjoy the view on a crisp, autumn afternoon. At least that’s what I envision when throwing any of their pieces on, though not sure about the choice of dog.
Also, I recommend reading Louis Cheslaw’s latest post for Magasin — touching on the splash of red we’re seeing across menswear. We’ve got Duchump favourites like MAN-TLE, A.PRESSE, and Colin Meredith bringing a pop of red in their FW25 collections.
(Not-So) Rapid-Fire Thoughts
Since seeing it, I haven’t been able to stop thinking about the Nomad Shepherd’s Jacket by Norlha. Rooted in Tibetan heritage, the brand has focused on supporting their local community, mixing modern design with traditional Tibetan craftsmanship and culture. “Many ancient skills struggle to survive modern life because they are intricate and specialized but have not been reinterpreted for today’s market,” shared Kim Yeshi, who co-founded the brand with her daughter, in an interview for Vogue.
Despite using 18th-century tools, Norlha crafts pieces designed to last you a lifetime, using an alternative to cashmere called khullu, sourced from the undercoat of the Yak — an animal native to the Tibetan Plateau. It’s twice as breathable, durable, and a far more sustainable material. Pair that with beautifully designed garments like their Nomad Smock Jumper, Collar Shirt, and their Dense Boiled Shepherd’s Jacket, and it’s clear why Norlha has built such a strong following.
Fashion Neurosis, my new favourite podcast, dropped their latest interview with Haider Ackermann, and it was an absolute doozy. Haider, the ridiculously handsome creative director for Tom Ford and Canada Goose, is the man of the hour after presenting their highly anticipated debut collection for Tom Ford. If you haven’t seen it, I recommend doing so as it did not disappoint.
I’ve never been someone who’s resonated with Tom Ford’s work, though we can all agree that his tenure with Gucci is one for the ages. That said, I have loosely followed Ackermann, so I was intrigued when he was announced as the new CD for Tom Ford. The connection between the Ford and Ackermann isn’t obvious, but there are links in their style and approach to design. One aims for sexy, while the other aims for sensuality.
Haider has a keen eye for detail, and you can see this clearly in the carefully chosen colour palette throughout the collection. Look 23 consists of a beautifully cinched overcoat with a leather, crocodile-textured leather collar, but it’s the pop of colour from the spotted royal-blue tie that feels intentional and fantastic. The leather shirt in Look 27 looks so buttery soft, you’d want to use it to make your omelette, while the leather gloves, belt and trousers fit exceptionally. Finally, looks 34 and 35, though both giving supervillain energy, contain a vibrant and powerful purple that you can almost feel in your bones.
All in all, the start of a beautiful partnership.
Jun Takahashi can sometimes do a number on me. I’ll see Undercover’s FW25 collection and it’s this fantastical collection containing pieces like Golden Rabbit Slippers, Thorn Crowns, and Patchwork Jackets that have been embellished — creating a folkloric feel, as if it’s a relic an ancient past. Then, out of nowhere, he throws in a corporate look like “oh, I’m punching in numbers from 9 to 5 at Meta before popping into Narnia for the night.”
And that’s one of the wonderful things about Jun Takahashi — he has the ability to present a collection that keeps you both engaged in reality, while evoking a sense of wonder and whimsy. It keeps you navigate through times of uncertainty, offering a sense of escape from the ongoing dread in the world, and bringing you into a world that feels safe and welcoming. Look 50 is stunning, truly breathtaking. The Angel of Buttons, as I call it, wearing a feathered jacket, trousers with enough buttons to last you a lifetime, and Owl Slippers that could either give you nightmares or make you the best-dressed in whatever realm you inhabit.
Though not my favourite collection by Undercover, it’s definitely one to appreciate. Especially in today’s climate.
Weekly Picks
Camiel Fortgens
Brown Viscose Cardigan
$745CAD
Our Legacy
Black Hang Loose Gloves
$360CAD
Rier
Spread Collar Wool Jacket (secondhand)
$800CAD
mfpen
Executive Shirt (secondhand)
$157CAD
Sage Nation
Gray Box Pleat Denim Shorts (banger)
$595CAD
Vintage
Shop Coat Coverall
$19.46CAD
Vintage
Miles Davis Tee
$172CAD
Vintage
1950s French Wool Work Jacket
$143CAD
Yoko Sakamoto
Regular Collar Shirt Sky Blue
$495CAD
Unkruid
Pickers Jacket Red Cloth
$1,895CAD