The brain fog is finally lifting after two weeks of being sick; consuming chicken noodle soup and Neocitran everyday. Man, those teas are basically the poor man’s version of ayahuasca - I was having vivid dreams of how my wardrobe ain’t shit, and also one of me falling off a cliff in a bathtub. The latter has yet to be analyzed, but we’ll come back to that later.
Well, it’s been an eventful week in fashion. Galliano and Blazy, I love you both and will miss you both at Margiela and Bottega. We’re going to briefly touch on JG.
Bye Johnny G!
Talking to Margiela purists about Galliano was a goddamn experience at first, as everything would come back to “this isn’t right, it needs to be Martin.” It was like when Community switched from the Russo brothers to, well, I don’t even remember who took over. That’s how memorable those later seasons were.
It’s been wild opening the comments section to see how people are reacting to the news. We’ve got Margiela purists spitting out comments that read like Trump tweets:
Personally, I loved the flare and drama brought by JG, as it’s something that’s been lacking over the last ten years, along with his way of story-telling. The mini documentaries the Maison released during the pandemic were fantastic, as it was interesting seeing what’s going on behind-the-scenes, the inspiration for a collection, the level of collaboration amongst the team, etc. The way it was shot was also interesting, as it felt like I was a part of some VR game.
*Here’s S.W.A.L.K. - Maison Margiela AW20 Artisanal Collection
Nighthawk, the label’s film for their Artisanal 2024 collection, was constantly on my screen. Not only is it beautifully shot and veeeeeeeery informative (the dual, side-by-side shots were on my IG stories for a few weeks), but the way John narrates throughout the film is intoxicating. Seeing the level of research conducted by John and his team, realizing that the beading of a dress needed to be done at a 45 degree angle - insane.
And as spring approaches, I’ll be referring back to their SS24 ready-to-wear collection, as that collection still lives rent-free in my head. Looks 17 and 22 is everything I want to be this spring/summer, so I’ll be doing everything I can to get my hands on literally anything from those two looks, or the collection in general.
It was a pairing that left many hesitant and concerned for the Maison, but it ended up being one for the books. It was a beautiful thing seeing the impact left after their Spring 24 Couture show with its level of inclusivity, the number of looks being reimagined on platforms like Tik Tok, the iconic makeup by Pat McGrath, and so on.
If you’re curious to learn more about John Galliano, I recommend reading Gods and Kings: The Rise and Fall Of John Galliano and Alexander McQueen, along with watching High & Low, a documentary on Galliano, on Mubi if you have a subscription.
Bode - The Fall-Off
Okay, so this may be a hot take - or maybe it’s a normal take. I’m not sure.
At one point, and this is documented in an article by The Cut, I was obsessed with Bode and everything they pumped out. The brand could do no wrong, at least in my eyes, as I collected piece after piece. From their Zinnia Ribbon Shorts to their Quilted Santa Clause-esque Blanket Stitch Jacket.
Bode, based in New York, was launched by Emily Bode and is primarily known for specializing in the use of antique textiles, quilting, patchwork and appliqué. She’s openly expressed how her childhood and upbringing has played a pivotal role in her design process; pulling inspiration from family trips, history, etc. Her FW23 show in Paris being perhaps her most personal show to date.
I’ve always loved this about the brand, however, it’s also one of the reasons why I’m no longer as interested.
For myself, my obsession began at, of course, Neighbour. I remember seeing their window display with the words BODE dead-centre and wondering who this is, and if they meant to say “body” instead. The first piece I saw was a pair of Wool Trousers with little figurines scattered all over, along with another pair of Houndstooth Trousers with little houses on top. Appreciated it for what it was, but moved on and scoured through their racks for more Our Legacy instead.
Then came the pandemic.
Most of my time was dedicated to work and running (I used to somehow run about 25-30km a week, now I’m dying after 5km), but during those pockets of free time, I would try to find new brands and work on improving my wardrobe. Calculus, a now defunct boutique from Victoria, carried the brand and since I couldn’t head back to Vancouver at the time, I would pop into the shop to see what’s going on. This is when I picked up my first piece by Bode - the Yoke Fellow Overshirt.
After that, we spiralled. It led to picking up the Schoolhouse Shirt (a fan-favourite), their Wool Fish Patch Jacket, a short-sleeve embroidered shirt (can’t find a photo atm), and so on and so forth. At this point, I was head over heels for the brand - would watch interviews with Emily Bode, their Vogue feature, post about each pickup on Tik Tok and get labelled a Bode boy, visit their HQ in New York.
Then, and I’m not sure why exactly, the obsession came to a full stop. Their prices rose, yet the quality of their clothes started to decline. Graphics became a bit cheesier, colour choices got louder and louder, and it just, if I can be brutally honest, got boring and repetitive.
I respect the ethos of the brand and Emily’s consistency, however, it just feels like there’s no new ground being broken. Their Spring 25 collection dropped this week, and after skimming through it, I’m not seeing any forward progress being made which begs the question - how long will this last? I’m seeing the same cuts, patterns, graphics, and some of these looks resemble some from a few years back.
The hype-train is at a standstill, the brand isn’t drawing up much chatter anymore, and it leaves me wondering how much is left in the tank for Bode. At one point labelled a Tech-Bro Bode Boy, it pains me to see a brand I once loved remain so stagnant. I’m optimistic and hopeful for a refresh considering how talented Emily is, but a part of me believes their time has passed.
We’ll have to wait and see.
Weekly Picks
It’s been a hot minute, but we’re back with a selection of picks that are worth looking into if you’re looking to treat yourself this Christmas. Make sure you’ve got your Christmas gifts ready before picking anything up.
Or not, I’m not your dad. That costs extra.
Yohji Yamamoto x Y’s
Bang-On Balloon Pants
$355.94CAD
James Coward
Trickers Monkey Shoe (my forever grail)
$950CAD
A.A.R. by Yohji Yamamoto
Corduroy Zipper Jacket
$448CAD
Y/Project x Salomon
Speedcross 3
$188CAD
Auralee
Gabardine Jacket
$294.43CAD
Teatora
Packable “Wallet Coat”
$961CAD
Maison Margiela
Beanie Beret
$356CAD
Paloma Wool
Gray Tate Bomber Jacket
$360CAD
O-Project
Woven Sweater
$600CAD
Lownn
Layered Shirt
$420CAD
7115 by Szeki
Unisex Merino Wool Ribbed Sweater
$195CAD
Literally all of the books on page 3 of Très Bien right now
The Broken Arm x Salomon
XA-Jungle
$344CAD
Aviva Jifei Xue
Black Parachute Trousers
$886CAD
Rier
Off-White Polar Fleece
$1,105CAD
William Frederick
Cafe Coat Mahogany Waxed Poplin
$485CAD
Thanks for reading!
Your support is greatly appreciated as I continue working towards growing this newsletter and slowly turning it into something bigger. The end goal is to turn this into a publication, featuring interviews with individuals within the fashion realm, covering collections and shows, etc. Maybe we can make it to fashion week - who knows.
My only ask is if you can please like, subscribe and share this post if you found it helpful, fun, or if it just helped pass the time tbh.
As always, thank you for your support. Love ya.
- Chris
Great picks man! Killer per usual.