Happy New Year
Hodakova, Renaissance Renaissance, and showing love to some of my favourite creators. Thank you for your support, let's keep this going.
Random Memory
Seeing Fran Lebowitz sitting on bench in West Village at 1AM, arms crossed, classic outfit; speaking to a passerby about New York. God I miss New York.
Outfits
When it comes to secondhand designer shopping, I do feel a bit spoiled after making several trips out to Paris and New York, and popping into stores like Country Of and At Dawn. However, it truly is slim pickings here in Vancouver, as most shops seem to solely sell garments that will leave you looking like Howie from Uncut Gems (e.g. the bad kind of Gucci, Fendi, etc).
Thankfully, after many months of struggling to find anything good, we were blessed with a pop-up by Machine Heirlooms. When I tell you that this space was loaded with gems, I mean it was filled with gems. One of my favourite pieces, that was picked up my partner, is the Felted Wool Polo Dress by Cristaseya (that is still available at Neighbour). It took a bit of convincing, but thank the good lord, she took it home. Did I mention she got it for just $200CAD?
As for myself, I left with two pieces and have already thrown them on for a casual outfit, as seen below:
Unfortunately, the Machine Heirlooms pop-up has come to close, but Commune just launched their website and sell similar pieces. I’ve perused through and can see they have a great selection of Yohji, Ann Demeulemeester, etc.
Follow Commune on IG to remain up-to-date with new drops.
What I’ve Been Loving
Where do I even begin with Hodakova. Their Spring 25 collection altered my brain chemistry for a moment, especially after seeing look 29. It reminded me of the time I tried LSD and saw my reflection coming out of the mirror at Big Wheel Burger. Maybe this comparison is a little extra.
“I find so much comfort in going back in memories… and my memories are in objects, so it’s more about smells, images, pieces - all of the physical things.”
Ellen Hodakova Larsson speaking on the influences behind her work with Vogue.
With the use of upcycled materials, Ellen Hodakova Larsson, creator of the brand, released my favourite collection of the season. Surrealism is something I’ve always loved in every form of art, and after seeing garments made from buttons, belts, zippers, and sunglass lenses, or the frame dresses that melted my mind, I can firmly say that I will be paying close attention to their work. This collection felt personal, touching on Ellen’s past and present, by using vintage/deadstock goods, Scandinavian influences in certain looks (e.g. belt skirt, backpacks for foraging, countryside imagery on a skirt and coat).
It felt as if I stepped into a dream, seeing Ellen’s memories of childhood nostalgia transition into adult sophistication. Truly, truly enamoured with this collection.
Here are some of my picks, pulled from both their website and SSENSE: Belt Bag Chequered, Waistband Jacket, Beige Upside Maxi Shirt, Black Knitted Rugby Polo, Blue Asymmetric Shirt, Black Horse Hair Blazer, Black Stocking Long Sleeve, Black Upside Down Bow Midi Skirt, Unfortunately, the Belt Chaps are fully sold out on Hodakova’s website, but you at least see how gorgeous they are here.
Next up, we have Connor McKnight. I’m not entirely sure why we don’t hear more about Connor, even after the heater collection they showed for Spring 25. I’ve been following Connor for a few years now and picked up their Floral Workwear Jacket that always sparks up conversations with the local grandmothers. I’m surprised by the lack of chatter about McKnight’s work, considering how versatile and sleek it is.
There’s a certain charm to this collection, and as a jazz enthusiast, I can absolutely picture someone like Miles Davis wearing several of these looks during his time in Paris. If you’re looking to elevate your wardrobe without breaking the bank, then Connor McKnight is someone absolutely worth looking into. Their Fall 24 collection sold really well, so I do hope this sparks even more attention.
Alright, so, as someone who enjoys a nice outfit that makes me look like a world-destroyer, I have been look for some new inspiration. Currently going through a slump, you know? Enter Mordecai. With a name you give to a kid that will inevitably get picked on at school, Mordecai’s Spring 25 collection has caught my eye with its beautifully layered and styled looks, and the mix of functionality and sportswear with a sophisticated, mature twist to it.
“I would like to work on garments with a universal style and an excellent quality that, by opening the wardrobe after 10 years, you still want to wear.”
An interview with Ludovico for DSCENE from 2023.
Ludovico Bruno, designer and founder of the label, has a heater of a resume working with the likes of Hiroshi Fujiwara, Thom Browne, Yoon Ahn, and several others. With Mordecai, he wants to create garments that will remain in your wardrobe for years to come, while being able to integrate new pieces seamlessly. You can see hints of his martial arts background in some looks, which also explains why he wants his garments to feel lightweight and functional. Ready to take down a motherfucker, but also look put together for the date you’ve got that same day.
Cynthia Merhej, the brilliant Lebanese designer behind the brand Renaissance Renaissance, has seen her star rise this year. I’ve been hooked after seeing just a few their looks on Instagram, like this one on Caroline Polachek, or this one from their FW24 showroom. The latter I would wear every single day if I could. The pinch details and the medieval looking trousers. Sign me up.
Their Spring 25 collection is one of sensitivity, captured in each look and the imagery shown. It feels personal, intimate, but haunting, with the setting creating a juxtaposition between the soft, delicate design of her garments, and the environment surrounding it. Cynthia has shared how her work has helped fight the constant, hovering anxiety she’s felt throughout the year since the conflict in Gaza started. It’s evident how it’s influenced this collection and I applaud her for releasing such a beautiful body of work during such a tumultuous time.
(Poppies were a symbol of Palestinian resistance in the 70s and 80s, to evoke a sense of hope and resilience. You can see how Cynthia’s incorporated the poppy in her designs through colour and construction.)
Now, I do have to bring up how much I love their Spring 23 collection. The cuts, textures, colour choices, and the finer, intricate detailing in looks 2, 7 and 9. I cannot emphasize enough how much I love this collection. Tulle, tulle, tulle!
Here are some of my favourite pieces by the label that are currently available on SSENSE: Khaki Deneuve Shirt, Burgundy Monik Faux-Leather Jacket, Gray Qajar 2.0 Mini Skirt, Black Kyra Top, White Kaya Blouse.
Closing Notes
Writing is not something I’ve ever thought of doing, whether casually or professionally. The feeling of vulnerability hovers over me whenever I release a new Substack post, or even when I’m trying to write a caption for an Instagram post. That’s why I typically choose to post without even having a caption, and no, it’s not because it’s the “cool guy” thing to do.
Since starting this newsletter, I’ve completely changed my perspective on things. I mean, I certainly did not have writing as my favourite hobby on my 2024 bingo card. The sense of community on Substack has also been wonderful, compared to the more hostile environments like Tik Tok, where someone with the handle “milkerman2581” will comment some obscenity on a video of, I don’t know, a flower.
One thing I have noticed is the lack of menswear writers. We don’t need more of the same ol' content covering Instagram brands selling the same pair of jeans. Something that’s interesting, genuine, impactful. Blackbird Spyplane remains as the top dog and I do connect with their work; covering brands that I love like James Coward. Their takes on menswear, and fashion in general, remains relevant as ever as we shift towards more timeless wear, and elegance, rather than the maximalist, hyper-poppy schtick that was dominating our feeds after the pandemic.
Another newsletter I love dearly is Magasin, for coverage on both menswear and womenswear. Their recent piece on the classic Fireman Jacket (selling like hot cakes), left me thinking whether I need this, or if it’s just classic feed-manipulation tricking me to pick one up. Though the mfpen one, mentioned in their post, is one I will definitely be trying on if it lands over at Neighbour. Also, Laura Reilly is a style inspiration of mine - love everything she posts.
Finally, Ryan Yip has been consistently producing work that leaves me intrigued and wanting more by how detailed they are, along with covering topics I wouldn’t have thought of. I was going down an Undercover rabbit hole recently after re-watching their AW21 show (Evangelion, Mars89, Thom Yorke - come on), so of course I had to peek at Ryan’s piece on Jun Takahashi. Brilliantly detailed, informative, and it made me appreciate Jun’s work a lot more.
Anyway, if you have any recommendations for menswear writers, please send them my way. And if you find my work at least helpful, please consider sharing it with your friends, hehe.
Thanks for reading!
Your support is greatly appreciated as I continue working towards growing this newsletter and slowly turning it into something bigger. The end goal is to turn this into a publication, featuring interviews with individuals within the fashion realm, covering collections and shows, etc. Maybe we can make it to fashion week - who knows.
My only ask is if you can please like, subscribe and share this post if you found it helpful, fun, or if it just helped pass the time tbh.
As always, thank you for your support. Love ya.
- Chris