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Before We Begin
I’ve been so bad lately, and not in a kinky way, but with my recent purchases and how quickly I’ve changed my wardrobe. For those that don’t follow me on Instagram, I recently had a story sale that resulted in a few sales, along with several marketplace deals, leading to my biggest haul in a minute.
Now, I must clarify that whenever there’s something on my radar, I’ll look at my closet first to see if there’s anything I can sell, flip, etc. My intention is to wear things to death, and if I’m clearly not doing that, then it’s time for it to go and bring in something new that will end up looking like your boyfriend’s boxers he’s kept since high school.
For those curious, here are my pickups within the last 14 days (jesus):
Duck Painter Pants by Comoli
"46G Atmosphere” Shirt by Kanemasa
Blue Work Shirt by Yoko Sakamoto
R18S8 “Weather Shirt” Rock Linen by MAN-TLE
“The Baker” Trousers by Toogood
Two-Tuck Wide Shorts by Amomento
Wool Washi Knit by Comoli
In the end, I’ve flipped pieces that were sitting there for ones that will see a lot more wear, and ideally, remain in the rotation for a while. Out of everything listed, the Washi Knit by Comoli has been the standout for me with its boatneck-ish collar, open side-seam, elongated sleeves, along with achieving maximum levels of comfort.
I’ve enjoyed most of my purchases so far, though the Baker Trousers by Toogood have been somewhat of a letdown. In my opinion, they are not worth the price I paid for them, and definitely not worth the $575CAD price-tag currently on SSENSE. They’re too lightweight, almost structure-less, and I’m not a fan of how easy they twist and fold inward with the lightest breeze. Very much a casual spring/summer pant, but nothing more than that.
Anyway, now that finished my shopping-spree and have returned to reality, I’m ready to chat about, well, something. Let’s see.
Brand Spotlight - Soshiotsuki
I’ve been meaning to write about them for months now, but due to my squirrely brain, we kept moving onto the next thing, and the next thing. Finally, I’m here to express how much I love Soshiotsuki’s Fall 2025 collection, and my desire to dress like a Japanese businessman from the 1980s, or Takeshi Kitano. Either or.
Soshi Otsuki, an LVMH semifinalist, isn’t phased by the spike in attention he’s received from the industry, and from enthusiasts like you and I. “I don’t feel any pressure from this increased recognition,” he told Vogue, “if anything, I think it was too low up until now.” Until February, I hadn’t hear of the brand, but it’s like they say — better late than never. With its exaggerated suiting and oversized looks, Otsuki released a collection that would’ve dominated fashion publications in the 80s/90s, but also feels and looks relevant today.
Honestly, it was hard picking a favourite look when they’re all so good, but look six stood out for me with its single button done, baggy two-piece Armani-esque suit, blue shirt, and speckled tie tucked underneath. Sauve and sexy, I’m obsessed. Look 14 is another favourite, featuring a three-piece brown get-up with the shirt tucked into what looks like, though not certain, a ruffled boxer. You can already tell these trousers are going to be d-r-a-m-a-t-i-c with its movement — walking around your neighbourhood, looking like an 80s corporate executive that may be polluting your local water supply. Who knows!
The Wingtip Tuxedo Shirt, seen throughout looks 23 to 28, reminded me of Yukihiro Takahashi — a founding member of Yellow Magic Orchestra — and the cover of his debut solo album, Saravah!. I would love, love to pull this off at some point in my life, whether it’s wearing it to the opera, or to my son’s little league game. I don’t care, it needs to happen.
Anyway, to wrap things up, I’ve become a fan of Soshi Otsuki, and it will be exciting to see just how much the brand grows. With A$AP Rocky wearing one of his suits for the cover of The Travel Alamanac, and with another LVMH prize nomination under his belt, it’s only upwards and onwards from here.
What I’ve Been Wanting
‘R18 S3 Gum Shirt’ by MAN-TLE
Forewarning: If you pick this up, I will actually hunt you down and rob you without hesitation.
Regardless of what you see online, I’ve been trying to wear more colour recently thanks to a) the latest streak of sunny days, and b) I’d like the older white women to clutch their pearls a little less when I’m passing by them. So, my plan is to better ration the number of all-black fits throughout the week, and incorporate more colour. Enter the MAN-TLE shirt (or jacket?) of my dreams — currently.
Made in Japan, the linen R18 S3 Gum Shirt is basically their iconic nylon jacket, but without all the hoopla. Since trying it on, I’ve been unable to shake it from my mind, and have been trying to sell what I can to pick it up.
If you’re into it, you can also snag it in a lovely navy. Louis from Magasin and I are on the same wavelength right now, as he featured the navy one in their latest post. He looks better in the jacket than I do though. I’ve gotta step my ass up.
Available at C’H’C’M’, Lost & Found, MAN-TLE, etc.
Jersey Stand Collar Jacket by Comoli
I mentioned this in a past article, but you know I’m a sucker for a stand collar. I’ve got middle-sized neck, so anything that will help it pop a little bit is good in my books, and the Jersey Stand Collar Jacket by Comoli is one that will absolutely help with that.
For those unaware, I’ve become obsessed with Comoli since last year after fully diving in and learning about the brand. Komori Keijiro, founder and designer, specializes on the day-to-day — designing garments that are interchangeable and seasonless, creating a wonderful concoction that will leave you ready for all climates. For me, I’ve been personally drawn to the brand because of the following reasons:
Their sizing is friendly to individuals, like myself, with larger features (e.g. broad shoulders, long arms, etc). It’s tough finding a brand that tick off all boxes, but Comoli is that exception. Everything fits, everything works.
The fabrics they use offer the comfort needed for all sorts of occasions and environments. I’ve got my Moleskin Zip Jacket ready for colder temperatures, while the Linen Blazer or Washi Knit have been in my rotation already as we’re hitting double-digit temperatures.
Their prices, except for the crazier pieces like their leather jackets, have been justified for myself. There isn’t a week that goes by when I’m not wearing something by the brand.
So, despite saying that I’ve been wanting to wear more colour — I’m still hunting for new Comoli to add to the rotation.
Greg Laboratory
Greg Jackson has been teasing several bangin’ pieces recently. One of which is their jacket, seen below, with circular side pockets, and appears to be fairly lightweight. Additionally, the ties and shorts he’s been posting on his stories. Goal for 2025/2026 — end up in one of Greg’s stories, trying on one of his new pieces.
The seasonless, uniform-based collection is one I would happily include in my wardrobe. Literally every item currently available, or releasing soon, has caught my eye, while the PC-SS-P23 pants have remained in my wishlist since day one.
1397 Eyeglasses by Cutler & Gross
We saw the premiere of The Studio last month, and since watching the show, I’ve been debating if I should pick up a pair of frames by Cutler & Gross. Specifically, the model Seth Rogen wears in the show — the 1397. Now, the question is whether I want to look like a porn star that’s hitting their prime, or Italian Job-era Michael Caine.
They are quite pricey, so no decisions need to be made just yet. In the meantime, I’ll just continue watching the show, even though my anxiety hits new highs each episode.
Okay, less yapping.
I’m currently eyeing down a Grey Two-Piece Suit by Y’s, Burnt Orange-ish Jacket by Lemaire, 80s Black Button-Up by Issey Miyake, Canvas Hunting Coat by Auralee, DSM Exclusive Foamposites by Nike/Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, Silk Pongee Crossed Trousers by Gabriela Coll, Jacket and Drawstring Trousers by Comoli, Artist Shoe by Irrational Element, and New York Cap by Comes and Goes.
The Current State of Fashion Media
One of my more memorable thrills was launching my TikTok in 2020 — posting my daily outfits, chatting about brands I like(d), and building an audience that resonated with what I was saying. It felt like fashion media, at that point, was easier to consume on any platform. Now, I can’t open TikTok without wanting to throw my phone into the sea and move to a farm in [insert cool European country here]. This is why Substack felt like a safe haven — but only for a moment.
An earlier post of mine mentioned how quickly Substack was (or is) growing, and how it was only a matter of time before the platform became TikTok-ified — with cringe fashion creators either regurgitating the same content (e.g. Sex and the City), or using way too many synonyms to describe an archival piece or brand for the sake of sounding different. Well, I think we’re starting to see what that looks like. And it’s one of the reasons I’ve stopped consuming fashion content altogether.
Listen, I’ve still got my go-tos like Present Forever, Blackbird Spyplane, and Magasin that I read consistently. But, by blocking everything else out, I’ve felt my sanity and love for fashion return to a much healthier state.
I believe we are absolutely past the point of needing any more Sex and the City-related content — on any platform, in any form. If you’re in dire need of a new drinking game, I recommend taking a shot every time you see Carrie Bradshaw mentioned, or an outfit she wore that you can “recreate at home.” At this point, I’d rather see people try to recreate outfits worn by Terry Bradshaw.
Fashion media, in its current state, has become this echo chamber of repeated opinions and discussions, and I’ve grown pretty tired of it. Publications like Vogue continue giving every collection a glowing review — for the sake of retaining their ads and partnerships, and securing a seat at x, y and z presentation. There’s little to no critique anymore, which only furthers the staleness we often feel and see in the community and industry. Even your favourite content creators are pushing products by brands they despise — but if the money’s good, then suddenly, the product’s good too.
I remember when Veronica Leoni’s collection for Calvin Klein dropped, and the general consensus was that it was lacklustre — literally just clothes. Nothing interesting, nothing extraordinary, nothing new. And yet, some of fashion’s biggest creators and publications couldn’t help but give it a glowing review. Looking back, you can tell their words were purely driven by ad revenue or access to shows.
Like Fox Mulder from The X-Files once said: trust no one. Actually, they all said this — shit was crazy. Anyway, you can take bits here and there from others, but just know that an ulterior motive could be lurking for a lot of the folks you follow.
Hell, it could even be me.
Thanks for reading!
Your support is greatly appreciated as I continue working towards growing this newsletter and slowly turning it into something bigger. The end goal is to turn this into a publication, featuring interviews with individuals in fashion, covering collections and shows, etc. Maybe we can make it to fashion week again - who knows.
If you can, please like, subscribe, and share this publication.
Love ya.
- Chris
Comoli KING
thanks for your input.