Cool Clothes For Cool Joes
William Frederick, Berner Kühl, Rainmaker Kyoto, and this week's selection of picks. Christ, I need a better title.
Introduction
Last week’s interview with Marina Yee has become the highlight of this publication thus far, so following that up this week is going to be difficult. My biggest takeaway from that conversation is how relatable she is and her perspective on the ‘why’ of fashion, her creative process when working on a new project, and her more reclusive nature compared to her Antwerp Six counterparts.
If you haven’t read it already, I strongly recommend giving it a read as it’s left me thinking about my objectives and creative process, what I resonate with, etc. You can find our interview with Marina Yee, written by Edward Luekehoelter, here.
Additional Notes:
I came across Noah Johnson’s article titled ‘The Future of Fashion? Good Clothes’ for Highsnobiety, and I couldn’t help but notice several brands I’ve highlighted made it onto his list. Interesting.
The weekly picks segment will be paywalled moving forward, to reflect the time it takes to find new pieces worth sharing. This will help fund future projects for Duchump and help its growth.
I’ve received multiple requests to help with styling and personal shopping. Yes, I can absolutely assist. If you’re interested, please email contact@chrismaradiaga.ca with a rundown of what you’re looking for, and we can discuss rates from there.
Despite discussing larger brands like Dries and Comme, the main objective for this Substack is to share smaller brands and designers that deserve more attention than they’re currently receiving.
The Vancouver Canucks suck (my girlfriend has grown tired of me saying “I miss J.T. Miller”).
What I’ve Been Loving
In our current fashion climate, with the excessive amount of content we’re ingesting on a daily basis, we’ve seen brands/designers forgo that deep, storytelling approach to their collections. Rather than taking the time to thoughtfully design something inspired by a person, moment, film — these days, designers often release collections that feel empty and lack substance. I’m not saying every collection needs to have a deeper meaning, but it definitely makes a difference when there’s something behind what you’re creating. In an age of overconsumption, it does help elevate one’s work from the rest.
However, designers like Bill are choosing otherwise by designing quality clothes that have a personal touch to them. For example, the Airport Jacket from his FW25 collection, inspired by his experiences going through airport security or boarding flights and having to rummage through his clothes layer after layer trying to find his passport, ID, etc. It’s not a captivating source of inspiration like Neon Genesis Evangelion for Undercover, but it’s a relatable source for any individual, making it more personal and meaningful.
Made with a Melton Wool and lined with cotton typewriter cloth, the Airport Jacket is a favourite of mine. The collection in its entirety is wearable, and will add a brooding sexiness to your day-to-day. If you’re a fan of Evan Kinori or Comoli, you will absolutely love William Frederick, as it will fit seamlessly in your wardrobe.
When it comes to their shirting, the Studio Shirt and Office Shirt will likely sell out before you even get the chance to pick one up. The simplicity is deceiving — especially the latter, which is naturally dyed, resulting in a happy accident. The tag ended up overdyed, so you can barely make out the text, but it looks more exquisite, while the garment took on a beautifully vintage look and feel.
As for the Studio Shirt, the more you wear it, the more it will crinkle and twist, adding a layer of character and life to an otherwise classic piece. Both shirts are designed with a boxier fit, making it a friendlier option for us big boys (I got broad shoulders, real pain in my ass).
The demand for good, quality clothing continues to rise in menswear, and with this, I can’t help but be excited for William — his work fits into this category perfectly. With a collection this cohesive, well-made, and the thoughtful approach to their design, it’s only a matter of time until the brand reaches new heights; standing alongside new menswear royalty like Evan Kinori, MAN-TLE, A.PRESSE.
The push for sustainability remains strong, as brands like Unkruid and Rier continue to release collections intended to be worn to death; remaining in your rotation for an eternity, and then some. We, the people, are now looking within the sweater to review its tags, see where it was made, what it’s made from — rather than picking up that sweater made in a sweatshop and saying “yeah, ima cop it.”
There’s a reason why Ryota Iwai of Auralee and Komori Keijiro of Comoli are often at the top of the list when it comes to designers to look into if you’re wanting durable clothes that are impeccably made. Even on a personal level, everything I own by Comoli has been worn to bits already. I can’t speak highly enough about the brand, especially with their pricing being so affordable for what it is (excl. the denim jacket I picked up then later returned), and how consistent they are with their design philosophy.
With Berner Kühl, they’ve made it their mission to “make a long-lasting product, something you can wear for years.” They’re transparent about their supply chain, informing the Customer exactly where it comes from and how it’s made, which is refreshing in a not yet post-Temu/Shein world, but at least in one where we’re now becoming more aware of their dystopian and unethical business practices.
In contrast, Frederik Berner Kühl focuses on the everyday, adding a sophisticated and luxurious twist to their garments. With their FW25 collection, shown during Copenhagen fashion week, we’re seeing the use of cashmere and suede, creating a delectable selection of clothes that are meant for any occasion. At first, they weren’t on my radar since I find it difficult to resonate with brands that design mostly body-hugging garments. However, their looser, more relaxed fits in this latest collection have caught my attention.
Nothing looks forced here, unlike other brands that have shown collections with garments that clearly don’t mix well together, but are styled together for the sake of... well, I don’t really know. With Berner Kühl, you can see their creative vision is clear and genuine; not having to cater to anyone else, and producing something that’s true to their style.
We hear about Auralee, Rier, and all the other major players in the mix when it comes to quality, and creating “cool clothes.” In my opinion, Frederick Berner Kühl has officially entered the chat.
This one’s interesting, as I’m not familiar with the brand, but I’m going to write about their latest collection. Basically, I’m like one of those dads you see listening to a random album their child picked, and giving an off-the-cuff review. That’s what we’re doing right now, call me Daddy.
Kohichi Watanabe, founder of the Rainmaker Kyoto, started the brand after being influenced by their father, who was a commercial facility designer (e.g. retail spaces, offices, etc). What’s surprising is that the brand is twelve years old, as it was started in the fall of 2013. It’s been a well-kept secret within Asia, since they only have three stockists overseas - SSENSE, H Lorenzo, and Swallow Lounge (pause) in Korea.
Rainmaker’s FW25 collection aims for practicality and versatility, featuring outwear with polartec materials, while having oversized luxury looks mixed within. Truthfully, the collection is a diverse palette — offering options for all kinds of occasions without having to be too extravagant. There are a few looks that contain a bit of flare, like the cape/sleeve accessory draped over top of a wool overcoat that features a high-collar and a single button (interesting detail).
Unfortunately, look 16 is perhaps the only look that left me a bit sour. The fleece coat is bangin’, but then I got to the trouser and heel combo. The silhouette, and look in general, was thrown off for me after that. All in all, the majority of this collection is great and very clearly inspired by Japanese climate + culture, but with bits of flash and flare scattered throughout either through the accessories used, pleating of their trousers, oversized silhouettes, or the rain jackets reminiscent to Craig Green’s work with Björn Borg.
Weekly Picks
Well, look at that — we’re back, bitch. I’ve been too busy trying to step my writussy up, since my end goal is to work with a more established publication, or at the very least, run my own thing and develop a community here.
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